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where do you sport climb North Cal in summer


Original Post
davidway · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 0

Hi Everyone,

I just moved to the Bay and there are so many smaller crags and some larger ones within about 4 hours but I really can't figure out what is my best bet.  I am looking for easy approach, sport only, hopefully with a high concentration of climbs. I climb in the 5.12 range Thanks!! David

Sean Anderson · · Nevada City/ Berkeley · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 40

Mickey's beach (just south of stinson) has a short approach with lots of hard sport climbs

Eric L · · Roseville, CA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 115

While checking out NorCal crags,  check out Auburn SRA (cave valley).  It's about 2-2.5 hours away up I80.  Limestone rock (old quarry), almost exclusively sport climbing.  Routes start at 5.6 and go up to 5.12d.  Over a dozen 11s and a half dozen 12s.  It's all in one compact valley with a mile hike on service roads to get there.

 You could also head to the Emeralds and Bowman up toward (but before) Donner, where you'll find routes up to 5.13

Bill Mustard · · Silt, Colorado · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 60

sorry man cant say i reckon

Sean Anderson · · Nevada City/ Berkeley · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 40

I'll second Eric's recommendations. auburn quarry can be a little crowded feeling for me. bowman ends up being quite the drive due to the road

JCM · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 95

Columns of the Giants, on Sonora Pass. Steep blocky volcanic rock, lots of 5.12s. Morning shade, and high(ish) altitude.

Jared Murray · · Oakland, CA · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 70

If proximity to SF and concentration of routes are top priorities then check out Mount St. Helena. It has the highest number of 5.11 and 5.12 sport routes and is <2h from SF unless you hit gnarly traffic.

Very hot in the summer but the Bear wall gets shade in the afternoon (others too). The approach is a little more than a mile. It does suck hiking in the heat. Bring plenty of water.

It's included in the Bay Area Rock guide.

Chasing Choss · · California · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 378

Big chief when the gate opens. Star wall on donner summit is prime right now.

Melissa Thaw · · Merced, CA & South Lake Tahoe · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 180

Tahoe has some sport climbing: Luther Rock, Space Invaders (Pie Shop area), Luther Spires, Mayhem Cove, Berkeley camp. 

New bolted routes at Pie Shop  and new bolted routes at Castle Rock (Nevada) . . . 

There are also bolted routes at the trad areas like Echo Lake 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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