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How bout dis anchor belay?


Original Post
ClimbingNewb · · Canyon Country · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 270

So cruzing Instagram I come to this photo. While the climb doesn't look super vertical or close  to it, the belay and anchor setup caught me scratching my head. 

What are your thoughts?

Derick Page · · Ft Collins · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 20

Not sure that would cash me ousside.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

She looks very happy and that's all that counts.

r m · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

Looks like what would happen if you only remembered half of the important things you were supposed to remember.

That biner wrap around the gate is almost hypnotic.

ColinW · · San Diego, CA · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 70

I have a struggle with mental confidence slinging chicken heads with slings for for pro, let alone building an anchor!! Post their instagram. Not so we can go bash them, but to politely ask "WTF are you thinking?"   

....yer gunna die.   

Andrew Krajnik · · Plainfield, IL · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 277

what the... ?!

Rather than doing the typical "see how many things you can identify that are wrong with this picture", can anyone find anything they did right?

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

I've belayed off of an anchor that consisted of an ancient 1/4" spinner and 3 chicken heads. There are routes like that which haven't been improved with modern gear. Fortunately that and the following pitch were both pretty easy. You deal with what you are given.

Taylor Spiegelberg · · Wyoming · Joined May 2012 · Points: 830
Derick Page wrote:

Not sure that would cash me ousside.

Comment of the Year-2017. Congrats Sir

ClimbingNewb · · Canyon Country · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 270
Marc801 C wrote:

I've belayed off of an anchor that consisted of an ancient 1/4" spinner and 3 chicken heads. There are routes like that which haven't been improved with modern gear. Fortunately that and the following pitch were both pretty easy. You deal with what you are given.

Correct. Even with what was given, I feel it could have been executed better. 

JSH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 960

I was going to criticize,  the grigri makes me feel much better.

Nolan Huther · · Clarkson University · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 602
FrankPS wrote:

She looks very happy and that's all that counts.

This comment went underappreciated.

Meanwhile, why do people like that mediocre internet trend (cashmeousside) when there are so many more deserving, truly dank memes to be shared? This site has never disappointed me more.

I do like this anchor in theory..

BenRobert · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 0

I call hooey 

ClimbingNewb · · Canyon Country · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 270

Any recommendations for improvement?

David Hous · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 195

Fun looking route, where is that?

Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 20

The slung chicken heads actually look alright, I mean not crazy awesome, but given the terrain not bad. From there the whole things gets funky. The Grigri looks to be there only because it's hanging on the locker, but then I have no idea what is going on with the carabiner connecting the two and the rope wrapping the gate. It's probably an easy 5.5 that got people in over their heads because they don't know how to build an anchor. 

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190
JSH wrote:

I was going to criticize,  the grigri makes me feel much better.

Agreed.  Was gonna say "YGD," but clearly an American Death Triangle around a chicken head with a Grigri is bomber.  My question is: who the hell belayed who?  And is that carabiner gate half open?

Old lady H · · Boise, Idaho · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 275

Awe sheesh. You spoiled it! Clearly they were warming up for a shot at Fame in the devil's lake top rope thread?

OLH

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 456

I'd belay off those chicken heads if that was the only option, but I definately wouldn't do it like that. The chickenheads should be slung with a clove hitch or slip knot and equalized as best as possible, and they should be used as a back-up to a butt friction belay on the lower angle terrain below.

I don't even know where to begin with the grigri hanging without the rope in it and WTF is going on with the rope wrapped around the biner on the left chicken head. I really hope she actually used the gri to belay and not just holding the rope wrapped around the biner. 

Old lady H · · Boise, Idaho · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 275

Is a grigri active or passive?

Dan Maus · · Grand Rapids, MI · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 75

I just don't understand...why this is still being discussed. Hooey was called long ago!

Darren Mabe · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,550

That and a couple bolts would be more than bomber

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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