Vedawoo bouldering


Original Post
Carlo Dagondon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

The girlfriend and I are checking the area out end of June and I wanted to take a shot at some offwidth boulder problems, any recommendations would be appreciated! 


mike c · · golden · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 660

The warden!!! A must do warm up. Disederata....then try monsters Inc!! 


Petsfed · · Laramie, WY · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 872

Beer crack is a hand crack roof to an offwidth finish.

Desiderata comes highly recommended but I've never been on it.

Check out The Warden (and everything else at the Dungeon).

Spin to Win out by Nat's is pretty good too


Carlo Dagondon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

Sweet! Thanks for the replies. Is there a guidebook out there in the internets that you guys would suggest as well? Mountain project is good and all but sometimes its harder to have to scroll around than just having a good ol fashioned book


Petsfed · · Laramie, WY · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 872

Vedauwoo Bouldering by Davin Bagdonas


John Lombardi · · Cheyenne, WY · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 100

I am not sure if Davin's guidebook is readily available. Most of these suggestions are pretty tough, just a FYI. There are lots of V1-V3 offwidths that aren't necessarily in a guidebook that you can just walk up to. Desi is V5, warden is V8. They are good problems but non-trivial, it'd help if you posted a grade range. Beer crack, nats 3 star roof, biggest tits in country music are really good roof crack/some OW V3s. The central area/turtle rock formation has a pretty good concentration of boulder problems.


Wilburn · · Cheyenne, WY · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 265

Listen to John; he knows his stuff. And you might already know, but bring plenty of tape. 


Petsfed · · Laramie, WY · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 872

John, you're right! I meant Life Without Parole, which is the V4 sit up at the entrance to the Dungeon.

Happy Hour at Coyote Rocks is another very accessible offside roof.


Carlo Dagondon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

Thanks again guys. My OW experience is pretty small so I think the V0-5 range should be a good call for me. 


Carlo Dagondon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

One more question: the girlfriend wants a try on OW. Any good straight forward V-easy/mellow she could try?


Wilburn · · Cheyenne, WY · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 265

With gear? Easy Jam is a good intro to off-size cracks on the Nautilus. Mother 1 is a 5.7 OW near that climb. But until you get the technique down, 5.7 OW feels more like 5.10. 


Carlo Dagondon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

Just looked at Easy Jam and it looks fun. Making me contemplate if I should just bite the bullet and buy a 4 and 5 C4...any other 5.easy off width suggestions?


Wilburn · · Cheyenne, WY · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 265

With a 4 and a 5 you could comfortably climb Upper Slot Right, though at 5.7+ it is still not a gimme. Mother 1 is best climbed with one #6, though if you were feeling frisky a 6 isn't mandatory. 


Petsfed · · Laramie, WY · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 872

Horticulture is a 2-pitch 5.6, with the offwidth on the 2nd pitch. Doable with a single #5, maybe a single #4


John Lombardi · · Cheyenne, WY · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 100

There are a couple climbs that have some OW moves that you can toprope at Blair III. You walk climbers right and you can access the bolted anchors for maybe 5 different climbs. 


Carlo Dagondon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

Thanks again for the suggestionsIm about a week away from getting there and I'm getting stoked on getting my ass handed to me on some offwidth problems and routes. Last but by least: my rack is standard. 

BD Stoppers 2-13

Metolius MCs 2-6

Camalots 2-4

WC 5

and the usual draws and slings...

should this be good enough to take up at least a couple of the OW routes?


Petsfed · · Laramie, WY · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 872

Definitely! It's rare that a sub 5.10 route takes multiples of the WC 5, so you can typically walk it with you, place smaller pieces as the opportunity arises, and be ok. Upper slot right definitely climbs like that.


Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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