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The reality is that I'm too...


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Quench · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

old, too tired, too worn down and have too many other interests to ever be, at best, any better than a 5.9 climber.  I'm an honest to gawd 3 pitch 5.7+ climber.  And I'm perfectly content with that.  

But I have a full rack, enough experience and reasonable resources - enough to easily get anywhere in NA.  And all I wanna do is spend a week climbing low grade trad routes all day,  having a nice dinner in town and a quick dip in the hotel pool before bed.  My mecca is a 100 yd approach to a wall full of 5.5-6 juggy sandstone that takes a ton of gear and offers incredible views.   Where is that?

slevin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,003

Eldorado. Wind Tower. 

Dan Cooksey · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 365
Quench wrote:

old, too tired, too worn down and have too many other interests to ever be, at best, any better than a 5.9 climber.  I'm an honest to gawd 3 pitch 5.7+ climber.  And I'm perfectly content with that.  

But I have a full rack, enough experience and reasonable resources - enough to easily get anywhere in NA.  And all I wanna do is spend a week climbing low grade trad routes all day,  having a nice dinner in town and a quick dip in the hotel pool before bed.  My mecca is a 100 yd approach to a wall full of 5.5-6 juggy sandstone that takes a ton of gear and offers incredible views.   Where is that?

Wait until fall and then go to Red Rocks.  If you would substitute sandstone for granite go to Squamish (minus the pool),  Colorado has some great moderate trad as well, perhaps try lumpy ridge in Estes park (check info on raptor closures).  In Estes you can stay at a spa if you wanted.  Best of luck 

Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 20

Little cottonwood canyon in Utah has a lot of moderate multi-pitch granite. Honestly, you basically described me. I'm too chicken to climb hard stuff on gear, multi-pitch 5.7+ is really where it's at for me. 

RKM · · Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 1,440

That's easy.  You sound like me.  The place would be City of Rocks and Castle Rocks in Idaho.  No approaches, miles of trad and bolted moderates, a hotel, three resturants, a great swimming pool with hot springs.  Not sandstone, but would you compromise with having solid rock instead?

Mike Womack · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 1,536

+1 for City of Rocks. I'll also add J-tree. and the majority of the approaches in red rock are pretty tough. same with the descents. 

Nicholas Gillman · · Las Vegas · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 331
Quench wrote:

old, too tired, too worn down and have too many other interests to ever be, at best, any better than a 5.9 climber.  I'm an honest to gawd 3 pitch 5.7+ climber.  And I'm perfectly content with that.  

But I have a full rack, enough experience and reasonable resources - enough to easily get anywhere in NA.  And all I wanna do is spend a week climbing low grade trad routes all day,  having a nice dinner in town and a quick dip in the hotel pool before bed.  My mecca is a 100 yd approach to a wall full of 5.5-6 juggy sandstone that takes a ton of gear and offers incredible views.   Where is that?

100% hands down Red Rock 

Eric L · · Roseville, CA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 115

Sounds like me except I'm still good for a campout and not ready to admit I'm tool old and tired because I'm just starting trad climbing (but the body is starting to talk to me), although I'm pushing 5.10a/b sport and hope to land on 5.10a/b trad.  Posting in this thread for ideas as well.  BTW, Donner (lots of hotels) and Lovers Leap (Strawberry lodge) may give you some options.  EDIT:  I saw NA and read it as NorCal, oops.  listen to everyone else... :)

Quench · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0
RKM wrote:

That's easy.  You sound like me.  The place would be City of Rocks and Castle Rocks in Idaho.  No approaches, miles of trad and bolted moderates, a hotel, three resturants, a great swimming pool with hot springs.  Not sandstone, but would you compromise with having solid rock instead?

Yeah, any kind of rock really.  

I know there have to be tons of climbers like me out there.  We get lumped in with beginners - which is unfortunate.  We're kind of a lost demographic.

Alicia Sokolowski · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 1,045

He said an approach of 100 yards or less, so that knocks out most of Red Rock's classic, long moderates.  I think the approach on lumpy would be beyond what he is looking for as well, depending on the area. City of Rocks sounds promising, so long as you aren't absolutely married to sandstone and don't need too much multi-pitch (you did say 3 pitches).

I am going to make my Gunks pitch. There are plenty of three pitch routes in the sub 5.7 grades.  If you are a secret millionaire, there's Mohonk Mountain House.  If not, Hudson Valley Resort and Spa is nice, has pools inside and out, and has a white linen and omelet station style breakfast included in the price.  I am not a spa person, so I can't tell you how extensive their services are, but it's a separate part of the hotel that doesn't permit children, which I imagine is a good start :)

The approach is probably not much more than 100 yards to a bunch of multi-pitch 5.7 and below routes, but it's almost straight up (they call it the stairmaster for a reason).  It is not sandstone, but it holds gear like a dream.

It can get crowded.  Weekdays are heavenly.

Marcelo F · · Oakland, CA · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0

Red Rocks seems like the obvious choice if you want sandstone, but I'll second the Lover's Leap suggestion. The approaches are shorter and even though it's not sandstone, the horizontal dikes allow for easy rest spots to place gear and plenty of face holds to get around any difficult jamming. Most routes are 3 to 4 pitches long, and the best ones are in the 5.5 to 5.9 range. Plus, you have South Lake Tahoe nearby for a dip in a pool, and tons of smaller crags and alpine lakes to keep you entertained.

Ken Graf · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0
Quench wrote:

old, too tired, too worn down and have too many other interests to ever be, at best, any better than a 5.9 climber.  I'm an honest to gawd 3 pitch 5.7+ climber.  And I'm perfectly content with that.  

But I have a full rack, enough experience and reasonable resources - enough to easily get anywhere in NA.  And all I wanna do is spend a week climbing low grade trad routes all day,  having a nice dinner in town and a quick dip in the hotel pool before bed.  My mecca is a 100 yd approach to a wall full of 5.5-6 juggy sandstone that takes a ton of gear and offers incredible views.   Where is that?

God damn that sounds like a nice way to spend a weekend :)

Quench · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

Y'all are taking me quite literally, which is cool.  And I'm quite grateful for your suggestions so far.  I *can* hike a mile or two.  And I can still sleep on the ground and cook dinner over a pocketrocket.  And I can shit in the woods.

But really, to be quite literal -  NRG with the AAC campground was damn near perfect.  The only real issue was the shortage of (+/-) 5.5 trad routes there. 

RKM · · Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 1,440

There are several of us 'older guys' that have either built or bought homes/cabins in Almo, Idaho area.  Most retired, and I am in the process of soon to be retired.  Each with their own sort of motivation and/or specialty in climbing.  Some are putting up sport routes for the moderate user and enjoy that total experience of creation.  Some still climb pretty hard and actually officially guide from there, some just climb at their ability depending on the day and attitude.  Some, like me, just climb to climb (as in the movement and moving over stone) and prefer mileage over difficulty at this stage of life. 

Tim Meehan · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 260
slevin wrote:

Eldorado. Wind Tower. 

And if you're in the neighborhood, Cobb Rock in Boulder Canyon.

RKM · · Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 1,440
Quench wrote:

Y'all are taking me quite literally, which is cool.  And I'm quite grateful for your suggestions so far.  I *can* hike a mile or two.  And I can still sleep on the ground and cook dinner over a pocketrocket.  And I can shit in the woods.

But really, to be quite literal -  NRG with the AAC campground was damn near perfect.  The only real issue was the shortage of (+/-) 5.5 trad routes there. 

I'm sure you 'can', but why would you?   You would have a life time of trad moderates at City or Castle

Joe Garibay · · Ventura, Ca · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 90
Brandon Smith 1 · · Utah · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0

Honestly, If you feel like travelling, Table Mountain in South Africa is what you're looking for. All the requested amenities nearby, a cable car to the top and then a 50 yard walk to the rappel areas. The restaurant on top is great for good food and a cold beer although somewhat touristy. Loads of easy classic routes on impeccable juggy sandstone with bomber gear.

Jon Frisby · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 100

Haven't been but Horseshoe Canyon Ranch seems pretty close on most points

Boots Ylectric · · Chicago IL · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 165

The Gunks - The Trapps.  Super easy short approach to tons of fantastic moderates ranging from 1-3 pitches.  Some good restaurants in New Palz, and I'm sure there's a pool to be found.

neils · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 20

this is my favorite thread ever :)  I live pretty close to the gunks (2h), I've been to red rock and J-tree each once.  This thread is giving me ideas for all the places I want to go :) and giving me gratitude that at least two people so far have mentioned my "local crag" fitting the mold for your criteria

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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