Regular North West Face Half Dome New Beta "knot toss" thoughts


Original Post
Dave Cummings · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 90

So I climbed this route in 2010 prior to the rock fall.  I want to go back and do the route again in a day.  I think this would be a really cool route to do in a day but I have heard a few things about the how the route was re-established after the big rock fall.  I was told that a "knot toss" is now the way to go.  Taking a piece of rope with a knot and throwing it into a crack and then ascending the rope.  I was wondering what people think of this.  My first thoughts are that I don't like that this is the new way to do it.  I was told it was done this way to "keep the gumbies away".  Personally if I was the one to re-establish the route I would have done it more traditionally with either hooking if possible, bolts, rivets, or a pendulum.

The person that told me about the knot toss said it was awesome and I am open minded but I still don't like the idea.  What do you all think and has anyone done it?

kevin deweese · · Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 200

If you care about "traditionally" the old dads did whatever worked in aid/bigwall climbing that was within their ethics. There's absolutely nothing untraditional about a knot toss (or hook toss or nut toss etc) compared to hooking, penduluming, etc.

GregC. · · Reno, NV · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 10

I thought the knot toss was pretty cool! Just go for it!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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