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Alex Honnold has soloed El Capitan


Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0
Hobo Greg wrote: "Everyone who has made freesoling a major part of their life is dead now"

Yeah, but it's too bad for the soundbite that most of em didn't die freesoloing. "Everyone who has knitted sweaters is dead now. From heart disease, car accidents, liver failure, etc. But they are ALL dead."

dying while soloing (bachar, hersey,) wing suiting (potter,), jumping off huge shit tied into ropes (osman)....adrenaline addiction kills people that free soloed at the edge of human ability. For all of these climbers they made free soloing a huge part of their climbing and eventually that led them to death while soloing or in search of more thrills like it.

Its a zero sum game.

"If you climb at the edge you eventually find it..."

--Jimmy Chin

They find that edge somewhere.
Peter J · · Davis, CA · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 115
Rob T wrote:

I’ll take generic dramatization over their heavy handed work any day. 

Sure I agree, but I'm an idealist. I am disappointed and I'm saying it could be done better. But yes, I'm sure it could have been done a LOT worse. I know the production team is the A team.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Peter J wrote:

Sure I agree, but I'm an idealist. I am disappointed and I'm saying it could be done better. But yes, I'm sure it could have been done a LOT worse. I know the production team is the A team.

You're basing all this on a trailer - something intentionally designed to be arresting and often highly dramatic. Why not reserve judgement until the actual film?

B. L. · · New York, NY · Joined May 2015 · Points: 54
Sirius wrote:

Unreal. Unreal. Unreal. Can't wrap my head around it. Legendary bordering mythic. 

At 7 this morning when I was drinking coffee in a stupor he was, where, somewhere near the Sous le Toit? I wonder what the temps were like when he hit the Boulder Problem?

I also wonder whether most people - hell most climbers, who generally gym and boulder and sport climb - will begin to understand what he's done. "Pfft v16 is way harder" type of reaction.

I find it hard to imagine anyone watching this not having their mind blown. Even v16 boulderers fall on problems well below their max grade sometimes .. so I'm guessing they will also appreciate the feat of putting in that amount of ultimate consequence millage on hard climbing.. just beyond belief almost. 

Peter J · · Davis, CA · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 115
Marc801 C wrote:

You're basing all this on a trailer - something intentionally designed to be arresting and often highly dramatic. Why not reserve judgement until the actual film?

Because this is MP. When has anyone ever reserved judgement till a later date?

Ocalslay Onlyyay · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,170
B. L. wrote:

... v16...

Woodson 5.12

David Kerkeslager · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 124
Rob T wrote:

Couldn’t disagree more. Aside from their inability to release a movie w in 3+ years of event completion(Dawn wall), I’ll take generic dramatization over their heavy handed work any day. 

See Valley Uprising(over playing Bridwell’s acid use, ranger confrontations etc) and High and Mighty(edited to look like Webb’s ascent of Livin Large inspired Woods’ ascent of The Process, when the latter took place 5 mos earlier). 

Editorial over reach like that is expected from Wild world of sports type stuff, but not allegedly “by climbers, for climbers” production groups. 

I am not sure whether I agree with your point, but I will say Valley Uprising isn't a good example. Valley Uprising is fairly explicitly about climbing culture, not about climbing itself, so you can't expect it to focus on the climbing. The Livin Large/The Process thing is weird, but one could even make an argument that when trying to capture climber culture, capturing the lore is more important even than capturing the truth behind the lore.

David Kerkeslager · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 124
Hobo Greg wrote: "Everyone who has made freesoling a major part of their life is dead now"

Yeah, but it's too bad for the soundbite that most of em didn't die freesoloing. "Everyone who has knitted sweaters is dead now. From heart disease, car accidents, liver failure, etc. But they are ALL dead."

As Tut pointed out, lots of free soloers died from base jumping, which is obviously related to free soloing. People who do dangerous things like free soloing tend to do other dangerous things like base jumping, and just because base jumping gets them first doesn't mean free soloing is safe.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Peter J wrote:

Because this is MP. When has anyone ever reserved judgement till a later date?

Forgot that. Sorry. 

Nate Tastic · · Sutter Creek · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 10

The video a page back wasn't working. I assume this is the trailer:


Ryan Bond · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 5
Nate Tastic wrote: The video a page back wasn't working. I assume this is the trailer:



Yeah, Nat Geo deleted and reposted it for some reason

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Rob T wrote: Aside from their inability to release a movie w in 3+ years of event completion(Dawn wall), ....
Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,110

Well,,Sender Films notices came out this past week saying a Sept. 19th release date at specially selected AMC theaters..one show...Tickets and reserved seats are online through their link.  i  can't believe that it is gonna be showing near me !  Living here in a climbers 'deadzone' of south suburbs of Chicago, there could be about 7 or 8 people to show up unless some big gym in the western burbs sends a bus load down to see it.  Glad to see a release finally for Dawn Wall' movie.

Caleb S · · Loveland, Co · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 0
Jake Stern wrote:

Anyone know if he chose the boulder problem or the teflon corner?

I think he chose the more technical, boulder problem. 

Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 136
https://www.mensjournal.com/adventure/how-alex-honnold-did-it-a-play-by-play-of-his-free-solo-climb-on-el-capitan-w486496/
Smack on the face of El Cap, the Boulder Problem is a difficult sequence across thin handholds, some no wider than a pencil. The wall is nearly vertical.
“The Boulder Problem is the single reason nobody had even considered free-soloing Freerider,” says Caldwell. “It took Alex almost a decade to get comfortable on it. Otherwise, he’d probably have free-soloed it in 2009.”
To get there, Whittaker suspects that Honnold slotted his fingers into a narrow crack and leaned back, letting his arms take his weight as he worked his feet, then hands, upward, repeating the process for a few dozen feet. A few other quick moves, and he was on a small ledge, just beneath the Boulder Problem.
The section spans about 25 feet. Just above the last few moves, Jimmy Chin’s Opens a New Window.  film crew had set up two remote video cameras on tripods to film Honnold.
“I was aware of how intense the sequence would be as I approached it, for sure,” says Honnold, “but I executed it perfectly. It’s a distinct set of movements, and I had them wired — left hand, right hand, left hand… I did what I normally do, just without a rope this time.”
According to Caldwell, Honnold climbed up into the sequence by pulling on a few tiny edges, the soles of his shoes smeared against small, sloping patches of rock, and grabbing a handhold the size of “a fourth-of-a-finger-pad.”
After moving his left foot onto a “sloping, bad left foothold,” and gripping a small protrusion, Honnold “grabbed a hold shaped like a nose, then shuffled his feet across on terrible footholds and grabbed the nose-shaped hold with his cupped right hand, too.
The next move is the single toughest of the climb. Honnold had to plant his left foot far out to the side, higher than waist-level, braced against the raised left edge of a crack.
“It’s almost like a karate kick,” says Caldwell. From there, he would’ve been able to push himself up and secure a few of his left fingers in a crack.
“The Boulder Problem is the kind of series where nothing is ever 100 percent,” says Gobright. “You always have to hit the foot-kick just right on every little grain of rock and shift your weight over perfectly.”
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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