Mountain Project Logo

Gunks beta request: P3 Beginner's Delight Belay


Original Post
Mark Berenblum · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 105

Just curious... What's the standard setup for the P3 belay on the ledge with the coffin rock? All the options I've found (combined with the traverse and corners) lead to horrible rope drag (even with long slings in all the corners). I'm planning to head up there tomorrow, and I'm considering whether it may be better to set up a gear anchor in the right-facing corner before the ledge (just before you squeeze through the opening onto the ledge). Thanks!

wivanoff · · Northeast, USA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 472

Don't know if this is "standard". I've sat on the coffin, threaded a sling somewhere between the coffin and the wall for my anchor and redirected off a couple of pieces in the corner. That way I was set up for may partner to lead last pitch. Didn't notice horrible rope drag. - but didn't place much gear on P2.

Systematic · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 321

Hey Mark, BD is in the 2017 Peregrine closure, which is still in effect... I'm sure you'll find something fun to climb. 

http://gunksclimbers.org/gunks-news/2017-peregrine-falcon-climbing-closure/

Mark Berenblum · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 105

Thanks to you, both! We'll find something else fun.

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 11,120
Mark Berenblum wrote:

horrible rope drag

I would have said that the main problem with leading the traverse pitch of Beginners Delight is how to protect without subjecting the follower to a dangerous swinging fall into the left-facing corner.

This problem is fundamental to leading easy routes in the Gunks (and other places), so if you're more worried about rope drag, maybe consider taking a lesson in leading strategy?

Also, anchor-construction methods that result in good communication with the follower will also tend to avoid adding rope drag to the system. Partner-communication strategy is another point to be covered in a good lesson in How to Lead.

losbill · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 130
kenr wrote:

I would have said that the main problem with leading the traverse pitch of Beginners Delight is how to protect without subjecting the follower to a dangerous swinging fall into the left-facing corner.

This problem is fundamental to leading easy routes in the Gunks (and other places), so if you're more worried about rope drag, maybe consider taking a lesson in leading strategy?

Also, anchor-construction methods that result in good communication with the follower will also tend to avoid adding rope drag to the system. Partner-communication strategy is another point to be covered in a good lesson in How to Lead.

Geez kenr!  What's up with this post?  What you post is usually worthwhile or at least it hasn't raise a blip on my BS meter.  FWIW this hit about an 8.5 on my BS meter.  This is really pretty weak dude as well as a more then a bit condescending.  The OP seems to be a reasonable individual attempting to work things out at the Gunks and asking for a little help.  As many of us have done in our climbing careers.   I am sure you could fashion a significantly better and more supportive response. Maybe give it another try.

Mark Berenblum · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 105

Lol, thanks Kenr for the concern, and losbill for the support. I figured I'd get such a response from someone. I'm not concerned about protecting the traverse. Done it many times and never found it as hard to protect as others suggest. I was just wondering if I was wrong in my automatic assumption that the huge comfortable ledge was the best belay when in fact a better option was close by. And yes, it's hard to hear your follower at the second belay from on top of the ledge. Regardless, I won't be poking around there this season given the peregrine closures, so don't stay up worrying about me on that traverse.

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 11,120

losbill wrote:
> Geez kenr!  What's up with this post?  

Sorry -- I'll try to do better next time.

For now let me just plead lack of sleep.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply

Log In to Reply