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Big gear needed at City of Rocks?

Original Post
Mark Paulson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 95

I'm flying in to SLC next weekend for a two-week stay at CoR.  We'll probably be doing about a 70/30 sport/trad ratio.  As we're flying, weight and space are at a premium-  is it necessary (or even worth it) to bring anything bigger than a #3 Camalot? We'll probably be tradding in to the mid-11 range. Thanks!

Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 868

The only 5.10/11 trad route that I've done requiring big gear was Animal Crackers. Other than that, most of the classic cracks are fingers and hands. 

Charlie S · · Ogden, UT · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 1,576

Agree with Creed.  There aren't a whole lot of big cracks.  If you're comfortable, you can do Animal Cracker without the #5.

Other than that, mostly the biggest gear used is a #3.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 14,214

Really depends on the routes you decide to climb and your comfort level.

There's a few harder OW's that I'd want bigger pro on.  But, they're probably outside the range of the usual classics (Half Moon, Vertical Turtle, etc).  If you're not seeking out those types of routes, up to a #3 Camalot should be fine.

#3 Camalot might fit here...

Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 868

I placed a #4 Friend on Crack of Doom, but it wasn't necessary. 

Mike Womack · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 1,658

For Rye Crisp, it's nice to have a #4 at least.  But I'd agree with everyone else and say no big gear needed for the majority of routes there.  

LccClimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 20

Columbian Crack, 4 star 5.7 requires big gear. I made the mistake this weekend of leading it with with singles to #4 and ended up running it out on easy ground after placing the 2-4 down low. Other than that, we didn't place anything bigger than a 3. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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