Top rope solo


Original Post
edanner · · Fort Collins, Colorado · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

Does anyone have a link to some info on this niffty way to project a route. I have seen it done a couple of ways. 

The first looked miserable. They were using a grigri and as they climbed they would pull in slack

The other looked a bit better but involved 2 ropes. One rope had a microtraction? and the other rope had a bunch of loops in it for a back up I believe.

Is there a more efficient way to do the 2nd style without having to stop and clip into loops tied into the  2nd rope? 

Can this be done with just a device and a chest strap to pull the device up as you climb? 

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 15

Use two micro or mini traxions on a single strand. Chest loop on the top one. No clipping loops or pulling rope through a device.

edanner · · Fort Collins, Colorado · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

Genius! Would a static rope be better or could I just use one of my dynamic ropes? 

BoulderCharles · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 25
Jplotz · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 505

One mini (or micro) trax on a belay master non crossloading locking biner on one strand of rope. Anything else and you're only sandbagging yourself. 

Have an escape plan. 

In the age of Google, I find it hard to believe you can't find more info than you know what to do with on all the available methods for solo tr.  

This is monthly topic here...

edanner · · Fort Collins, Colorado · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

Google is great but I preffer advice from a human. It is nice to ask for help and get pushed towards a proper link instead of using the internet brain of all knowing power. Maybe I will spend more time on mountain projects so I dont miss any of the  monthly topics. 

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 15
edanner wrote:

Genius! Would a static rope be better or could I just use one of my dynamic ropes? 

I just use my regular climbing rope, as I don't own a static rope. A piece of shock cord works well for the chest loop. Available at some fabric stores. Weight your climbing strand so the micro feeds better. Hang your near-empty pack on the end of the rope to provide some tension.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 1,865
edanner wrote:

Google is great but I preffer advice from a human. It is nice to ask for help and get pushed towards a proper link instead of using the internet brain of all knowing power. Maybe I will spend more time on mountain projects so I dont miss any of the  monthly topics. 

Google - or a search on MP - will lead to, are you ready for this? posts made by HUMAN FREAKIN' BEINGS.

Stephen Felker · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 310

Use one rope.  Extend the top device, and hold it up with a minimal chest rig.  This photo sequence shows how to transition quickly under weight to descend.  I've done hundreds of pitches with this setup.  

Firestone · · California · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 449

If you are really projecting and bouncing around on the line or if your anchors are set behind a sharp edge you should use two ropes with one device on each rope. 

You can fold your climbing rope in half and get two strands out of one rope as long as the pitch is less than half rope length.

Stephen Felker · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 310
Firestone wrote:

... you should use two ropes with one device on each rope. 

Many folks theorize that two ropes are better, but this just doesn't work well in reality- especially when "really projecting".  

Under what other recreational circumstances do people insist on redundant single ropes?  

Use one rope.  Redirect around or pad sharp edges.  Get more done.    

edanner · · Fort Collins, Colorado · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

Greatings Earthlings! Thanks for all the help. 

Kevin Stricker · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 325
Stephen Felker wrote:

Use one rope.  Extend the top device, and hold it up with a minimal chest rig.  This photo sequence shows how to transition quickly under weight to descend.  I've done hundreds of pitches with this setup.  

Steven,

  You should switch out your D gate biner on your minitrax for an oval.  D's will crossload the device and tweak the pulley so it will not close properly on the swivel side plate.  I know of a couple people who have ruined a minitrax this way ( myself included).

Eplumer400 · · Cleveland, OH · Joined May 2016 · Points: 80

I use a grigri extended on a 60cm sling and a Petzl rescucender right off the belay loop. We don't have anything too huge in Ohio, so I'm able to fold my 60m rope in half and do a figure 8 on a bight in the middle and clip it to the anchors, and use each strand for each device. This would also work on a single rope too if doing longer routes if you want. Just tie something heavy to the bottom of the ropes (I use my pack), and after a couple of feet the grigri will feed itself. Having it extended keeps it out of the way when doing moves, but if coming into a crux section you can feed it up above you for extra insurance from falling. 

To lower, I bring two draws up with me to clip into the anchors, then remove the rescucender, tie a prusik above the grigri, and use the grigri to lower. 

Used this method many times, and practiced at home before going outdoors on my own. Whatever method you choose, practice it and have it wired before you do any hard projecting.

cyclestupor · · Woodland Park, Colorado · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 68

The Trango Vergo seems like it would be an excellent TR solo device.  Like the Minitrax, there is very little rope drag through the device, but the Vergo has the advantage when it comes time to lower (just pull the handle).  I haven't been able to buy and try the Vergo as a TR Solo device yet (due to the recall).  I have used my partner's Vergo to belay him on several occasions though, and I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work for TR Solo.  I know the cinch was a somewhat popular TR Solo device BITD.  

Has anyone tried the Vergo for TR Solo?

Stephen Felker · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 310
Kevin Stricker wrote:

You should switch out your D gate biner on your minitrax for an oval.  D's will crossload the device and tweak the pulley so it will not close properly on the swivel side plate.

Those Edelrid slider lockers have a really low profile locking mechanism and some curve in the spine.  They are less likely to crossload a microtraxion than most standard lockers.  Perfect for the backup device.

Stephen Felker · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 310
Eplumer400 wrote:

...tie a prusik above the grigri, and use the grigri to lower.

With your third hand?

Jake Jones · · Richmond, VA · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 748
FrankPS wrote:

I just use my regular climbing rope, as I don't own a static rope. A piece of shock cord works well for the chest loop. 

A 4ft nylon sling works well too.  I just make an X and put my arms through the two loops with the X on my back.  I use a regular handled ascender with a locker through the top attached to the sling and a locker on the bottom attached to my belay loop.  I have a short sling girth hitched through my tie ins with a micro trax as the backup.  Two independent lines weighted slightly at the bottom.  And I don't tie a knot in the rope at the top.  I clove independently to two lockers- one on each bolt. I leave a small bight hanging between the bolts at the top.  Helps to have something to clip to or hang on at the top when you need to unweight your ascender.

Firestone · · California · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 449
cyclestupor wrote:

The Trango Vergo seems like it would be an excellent TR solo device.  

Also the cinch/vergo is the only descender I'm aware of that can be attached to a weighted rope. With a grigri or ATC the rope must be slack to put it in the device.

Jay J · · Euelss · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 0

I used to TR solo with an ascender on my harness on one rope and a chest ascender on the other, but I don't think Petzl reccomends using their chest ascenders this way.  Otherwise it was just like the publications show.

Weighing down the rope at the bottom with a backpack helps.

One thing to watch for is arriving at the top with some travel in the rope so you can slide the ascender up while disengaging the camming mechanism.  If you push it up against a knot, the teeth can catch on the sheath of the rope as you fight the thing getting it off the rope.  Just something to think about before topping out.  

Andy Rasmussen · · MA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 25

Make sure you practice switching to rappel from a free hang before you get on any overhanging or hard routes. Always carry an extra double length sling to klemheist to the rope to unweight your ascending devices of choice. 

Also i recommend thin elastic cord strung around your neck or chest instead of a chest harness (like Stephen Felkner) if you end up using one. If something really bad goes wrong it'll snap instead of choke you. Also its less likely to get snagged in an ascender.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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