Narrow ledge high off the ground to practice ledge bivy on, in the wasatch


Original Post
Ryan Arnold · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 493

My partner and I need practice hauling overnight gear to and sleeping on an exposed, narrow ledge. Preferably there would be some 5.10 - 5.12 climbing above or below the ledge.  What options do we have in the Wasatch?  The more pitches the better.  Maybe some backup summer-appropriate zion options too?  Thanks.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 13,762

S-Crack and bivy on Lunch Ledge, I suppose.

Peeler Direct might work.

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,067
Brian in SLC wrote:

S-Crack and bivy on Lunch Ledge, I suppose.

Peeler Direct might work.

I don't know that I'd consider Lunch Ledge narrow, or particularly high off the ground feeling.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 13,762
Ken Noyce wrote:

I don't know that I'd consider Lunch Ledge narrow, or particularly high off the ground feeling.

Not narrow, but, it is a ledge and one that could be slept on.

Yeah, not super exposed...what's your recommendation?

ddriver · · SLC · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 410

Maybe Stratosphere on the Triangle Wall.  It is steep enough for reasonable hauling, has interesting climbing, even some aid.  Question would be how good the bivy site at belay 4 or 5 would be.  I cannot really remember.  Check for current conditions before going, you may need to drill anchors at belay 4.  

To the right is Less Than or Equal To, which I have not done, but JG describes it as a good Yosemite warm up. 

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,067
Brian in SLC wrote:

Not narrow, but, it is a ledge and one that could be slept on.

Yeah, not super exposed...what's your recommendation?

Unfortunately, I'm having a hard time thinking of anything that really fits that description.  I wasn't trying to be argumentative, just point it out to the OP since it didn't really seem to meet his criteria in my mind.  Good job providing some information though!

Oh, maybe the top of center thumb in the cirque?  I don't remember how flat it is, but exposed and fairly small it certainly is!

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 13,762
Ken Noyce wrote:

Unfortunately, I'm having a hard time thinking of anything that really fits that description.  I wasn't trying to be argumentative, just point it out to the OP since it didn't really seem to meet his criteria in my mind.  Good job providing some information though!

Oh, maybe the top of center thumb in the cirque?  I don't remember how flat it is, but exposed and fairly small it certainly is!

Short term...pretty darn snowy up in the Cirque!  Also a bit of an approach hike...

I thought about the Triangle Wall routes...might be fun hauling a bunch of stuff just to the base of that area...maybe there's a ledge on Stifflers?

Go bivy in Kolob on Sunlight Buttress (maybe at the base unless you have a portaledge)?

Maybe top of Meat Puppets?  Clean haul...ha ha...  Or Nostrum.  Something up on the steep rock of the Green A area that wouldn't get in the way of folks climbing...

grog m aka Greg McKee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

How about Squawstruck in Rock canyon? 22 pitches of moderate. The route nature would allow you to pick any size ledge you desire. 

bsmoot · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 1,960

Not too many natural bivy ledges in LCC . Do you have a portaledge?  The Black Peeler and Peeler Direct are very good for practice aid & hauling but have sloping ledges. Both the Lateral and Ventral Fin routes are great practice. The last pitch of the Ventral Fin has a cool narrow ledge about half way up you could maybe lie down on...the exposure is huge. The Direct South Face route of the Pawn has an exposed narrow ledge 4 pitches up but the hike is 2 hours. If you just want to bivy, tree ledge on House of Cards or American Pie ledge on Stifflers Mom offer possibilities. I haven't done it but I think Wonderwall on Lone Pk has a good ledge.

If you go to Zion, Monkerfinger Wall has some great ledges up high. Touchstone, Deseret Shield  & the Lowe Route on Angel's Landing also have cool bivy ledges. 

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 13,762

grog m aka Greg McKee wrote:

How about Squawstruck in Rock canyon? 22 pitches of moderate. The route nature would allow you to pick any size ledge you desire. 




Not sure I'd recommend hauling on that route...
tenesmus · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2004 · Points: 2,190

Calypso Ledge in Bell's Canyon.  Slopes down. Built in grill. Shade or sun.

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 713

The top of the final link is a nice ledge.

BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 340
tenesmus wrote:

Calypso Ledge in Bell's Canyon.  Slopes down. Built in grill. Shade or sun.

this sounds cool...is it natural or a man-made portable someone hauled up there in the past and left?

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 13,762
BigB wrote:

this sounds cool...is it natural or a man-made portable someone hauled up there in the past and left?

Or...maybe it sounds uncool?

BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 340
Brian in SLC wrote:

Or...maybe it sounds uncool?

touche

LCC Climber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 20

2-bolt station at the Start of "Fudd Crack".

2-bolt station halfway up "Watergate."

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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