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Getting back to the wall on overhung


Original Post
jmmlol · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 0

Does anyone have any tricks for getting back to the wall on a climb where you end up about 10 feet from the wall after falling? Especially with a lighter belayer. I've had minimal luck boinking. 

Maybe some sort of hook on a line I can clip to my harness?

Kim Ran · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 715

Honestly, boinking up shouldn't be that much of a problem, even with a lighter belayer. If your belayer is lighter like that, they probably got lifted up off the ground when you fell. Have them stay off the ground while you boink up. I've found that belaying with a GriGri helps tremendously. 

If your belay really is that incompetent, I have seen people use ascenders as well but that seems a little unnecessary to me personally. The climber can ascend the rope and go into direct to the last draw so the belay can take up the slack, a pain in the ass but can get the job done.

Jake Jones · · Richmond, VA · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 1,480

https://www.climbing.com/.amp/skills/walking-the-rope/

Also, if you carry a bit of small cord and a large biner, you can make a friction hitch handle to assist a great deal in boinking.  It'll help if you're completely knackered, and might allow you bigger, easier pulls- which will also benefit your belayer.  

You can also (if you're on single pitch and depending how far up you are) use the ground end of the rope, attach it to a draw, get your belayer to throw you up the stick, and clip the bolt side biner you're hanging on.  Then just pull yourself up.

Sometimes you have to get creative.

dino74 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 60

Tylerpratt · · Litchfield, Connecticut · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 35

You can boink with a french prussik. def makes it easier. 

Ascend the rope with two french prussiks or two prussiks. (french is easier to work with)

Bring jumars.

AndyMac · · Center, CO · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 580

I'd 2nd the cord suggestion, even if it's just to give you more material to grab. I think it's damn hard to pull up on a skinny stretched out rope when you're already pumped out.

Also, use your legs!  Swing your legs behind you and then back up in front of you so they go higher than your head.  Use that moment when they are moving upwards and create some momentum to do a bigger pull up. I had minimal luck boinking until I started doing this.

John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 451

Although not always, many times you'll have a good swing.  Reach out with a hand or foot and snag the other rope before your swing dies.  You gotta act fast.  After that, boinking (or rope walking for really strong types) is your only hope outside of a prussik.  Most ascenders won't go onto a weighted rope. 

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490
John Byrnes wrote:

Most ascenders won't go onto a weighted rope. 

????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 451
Jim Titt wrote:

????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

You're right.  Brain-failure.   I edited that.

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490
John Byrnes wrote:

You're right.  Brain-failure.   I edited that.

Already quoted for posterity, it will never leave the internet!

Matt Himmelstein · · Orange, California · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 125

If the climber is fairly low, I will take the free end of the rope, toss it to them, and give them an assist to swing back to the wall.

John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 451
Jim Titt wrote:

Already quoted for posterity, it will never leave the internet!

Ooooooh  Noooooooo!   ;-)

physnchips · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 0

If it's a decent fall, as most are, you're honestly better off starting over IMO.

John Barritt · · OKC · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 1,053

I predict "boinking" related accidents and "boinking" related belay loop, quick draw and harness failures as a common cause of future sport climbing injuries......... ;)

Jason Todd · · Cody, WY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 998

I had a boinking accident.  

I woke up one morning after a long night out with my newly married wife.  She was in the kitchen making breakfast when I approached from behind, grabbed her hips, and I meant to say, "boink, boink" as a show of immature affection.  What came out of my mouth was "oink, oink"...

John Barritt · · OKC · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 1,053
Jason Todd wrote:

I had a boinking accident.  

I woke up one morning after a long night out with my newly married wife.  She was in the kitchen making breakfast when I approached from behind, grabbed her hips, and I meant to say, "boink, boink" as a show of immature affection.  What came out of my mouth was "oink, oink"...

Hilarious! ........ ;) 

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,745

As a general statement (going FAR beyond this specific discussion), I'm of the opinion that every climber should know how to (and practice) ascending a rope with a pair of slings.

ckersch · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 150
John Barritt wrote:

I predict "boinking" related accidents and "boinking" related belay loop, quick draw and harness failures as a common cause of future sport climbing injuries......... ;)

Nah, it's been scientifically proven that most "boinking" related accidents end up as boulderers.

John Barritt · · OKC · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 1,053
Gunkiemike wrote:

As a general statement (going FAR beyond this specific discussion), I'm of the opinion that every climber should know how to (and practice) ascending a rope with a pair of slings.

Sling boinking........... I think a there's a class for that at the gym......;)

Jaren Watson · · Boise, Idaho · Joined May 2010 · Points: 1,205

Core strength, baby! Even when your forearms are pumped, your core will boink you to paradise.

Squeak · · Perth West OZ · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 23
Jake Jones wrote:

https://www.climbing.com/.amp/skills/walking-the-rope/

Also, if you carry a bit of small cord and a large biner, you can make a friction hitch handle to assist a great deal in boinking.  It'll help if you're completely knackered, and might allow you bigger, easier pulls- which will also benefit your belayer.  

You can also (if you're on single pitch and depending how far up you are) use the ground end of the rope, attach it to a draw, get your belayer to throw you up the stick, and clip the bolt side biner you're hanging on.  Then just pull yourself up.

Sometimes you have to get creative.


Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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