Bail Beiners and quick links

Nathanael, you are on a roll!

Well I was referring to leaving quick links at anchors if I build it. Was mainly trying to make sure that a quick link from the hardware store wasn't kosher for some reason compared to the $8 petzl or trango ones. 

I haven't had to bail off a route but would typically leave a cheap Biner not a link btw

Kevin Kelley wrote:

Well I was referring to leaving quick links at anchors if I build it. Was mainly trying to make sure that a quick link from the hardware store wasn't kosher for some reason compared to the $8 petzl or trango ones. 

I haven't had to bail off a route but would typically leave a cheap Biner not a link btw

Your OP and thread title do not indicate this at all but thanks for clarifying.

Stick clip your way past something if you get stuck. Easy Peasy. 

Kevin Kelley wrote:

Well I was referring to leaving quick links at anchors if I build it. Was mainly trying to make sure that a quick link from the hardware store wasn't kosher for some reason compared to the $8 petzl or trango ones. 

This rap ring is on sale for less than $4 and would be a better option for leaving at an anchor considering it's purpose.

https://www.backcountry.com/omega-pacific-rappel-ring?CMP_ID=SH_NXT001&utm_source=Nextag&utm_medium=CSE

Wilson On The Drums wrote:

and how are you supposed to connect that crappy aluminum rap ring to the anchor?  With a quicklink obviously.  Don't use aluminum rings at anchors unless it is a back country crag that will see little to no traffic.  Steel rings only cost a buck or two more and last probably 10 times longer, or you could save some money and just use quick links which will last way longer than the aluminum ring.

Kevin Kelley wrote:

Well I was referring to leaving quick links at anchors if I build it. Was mainly trying to make sure that a quick link from the hardware store wasn't kosher for some reason compared to the $8 petzl or trango ones. 

I haven't had to bail off a route but would typically leave a cheap Biner not a link btw

$4 Trango quicklinks...
https://www.backcountry.com/trango-quicklink-10mm?rr=t

Yer gunna die! If the hardware store quicklink doesn't do it, the mob of angry sportos certainly will.

Kevin Kelley wrote:

Well I was referring to leaving quick links at anchors if I build it. Was mainly trying to make sure that a quick link from the hardware store wasn't kosher for some reason compared to the $8 petzl or trango ones. 

I haven't had to bail off a route but would typically leave a cheap Biner not a link btw

I can't believe I got suckered into giving Mike Womack so much grief! Be a little more specific next time :-)

I still don't know exactly what you are asking.

If making anchors that folks will routinely lower from, I'd recommend at least 3/8 inch quick links, you can find them for <$1 online. 

Steel rap rings are a nice addition so folks can thread the anchor without untying.

Better would be mussy hooks. Climbtech has a really nice one that's about $6 retail. The Sechoice winch hooks aren't as nice, but will work.

https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=seachoice+winch+hook+36981&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

You might be able to get a deal from an LCO depending where you live.

If you are just adding links to some random trad anchor, I'll defer to others, but seems like a 3/8 QL would do the job. 

This company was a little more expensive, but shipping was free.

https://www.mfrexpress.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=3%2F8%22+Quick+Link+Steel+Zinc+Pla

There are places where you may need to use stainless, but someone else will need to offer that expertise.

Mark E Dixon wrote:

Better would be mussy hooks. Climbtech has a really nice one that's about $6 retail. The Sechoice winch hooks aren't as nice, but will work.

No worries Mark! haha.  +1 on mussy hooks.  Many different types of anchors that work great - depends on the surrounding climbs or areas though.  It's safe to follow suit to what other FAs have done unless it's bad of course..

Hobo Greg wrote:

I've been climbing for two years and have found twice as many bail biners. You must either climb obscure routes, or just not very often ;)

I suppose they're just obscure.. haha. I do a lot of trad lately and not much bailing there... I have found 3 bailed cams (some almost brand new) and a handful of nuts.

Mike Womack wrote:

In the 10 years or so that I've been climbing, I've bootied about 5 bail biners and 5 bail quicklinks.  Once I found a quicklink on a difficult climb waaaaayyyy in the middle of nowhere (super inconvenient) .  One of those crags that you pass dozens of other crags to get to...  Anyway, it was a 500 lb rated one (pretty tiny) and had been there for years. I'd guess at least 6 years. I took it off no problem.  This area is frozen 6 months of the year, was covered in rust, a no-name china brand and I got it off no problem.  I'm not saying quicklinks can't or don't get stuck, but if you don't tighten it down with magic voodoo power, it usually comes right off.

I love the n = 5 used to make this assessment. I've found quick links fused shut in the Utah West desert where it rains once every 7 years. Since I counted 6, I hereby declare that quicklinks left on routes are usually fused in place unless you loosen them with magic voodoo powder.

By the way for every quick link you can clip under there will be two which make the clip way harder, not something I want to experience when I'm pumped and cruxing out. And they're not that easy to assess either: a couple year ago I pulled a quick link from K8, probably the most popular route in the Utah Hills, the fucker was bent enough that you could only engage half a thread when trying to screw it shut. 

Use your shittiest biner if you really have to leave something, or better yet be a good n00b and leave an entire draw fresh from REI. Those are really nice to leave on projects you don't really care about...

Buy used bail biners on MP. I've seen them go for $3 which is actually cheaper than a properly rated quicklink. Otherwise, it all evens out in the end. I used to leave a lot of bail biners and now I collect a lot. What I lost I gained back as I got better. Even now if I have to leave a bail biner I am not worried because I know I'll collect one at some point in the future to replace it with.

The true brotherhood of the traveling bail biner

MojoMonkey wrote:

It appears I hit them more often than you, and they are not always so easy to deal with. I remember one at the NRG that managed to take up most of the hanger such that fitting my draw in wasn't an option. Clipping it to the rusted out junker was also not appealing. And this, like where most people bail, was on the bolt before the crux. I could not budge the gate while lowering from the route after.

But at least the guy that left it save a few bucks 

I've also had a couple times where the bail link took up the whole hanger and that sucks!! I always carry an extra biner. It can be used to bail from the route, or to replace grooved anchor clips too if you find that on a route. 

Kevin Kelley wrote:

Well I was referring to leaving quick links at anchors if I build it. Was mainly trying to make sure that a quick link from the hardware store wasn't kosher for some reason compared to the $8 petzl or trango ones. 

I haven't had to bail off a route but would typically leave a cheap Biner not a link btw

Where the hell ate you finding 8$ quicklinks?  3-4$ is pretty standard at any climbing shop.

luke Lydiard wrote:

I have a dozen used carabiners for sale for $25. I'll thrown in the little scissor knife thing in the photo as a bonus. Buyer pays shipping and I'll cover the PayPal fee. 

Hopefully the OP doesn't need to bail that often... 

Shit, I would make alpine draws and use a bunch of those on my reg rack. They look just fine!

Locker wrote:

Don't use either. Rap of a sling, then pull it off behind you.

old school

Locker wrote:

Don't use either. Rap of a sling, then pull it off behind you.

This is also what I have done but for some reason I thought it was taboo and always just told people to rap off biners... Of course being lowered off the sling is stuuuupid fucking dangerous so you should never do that though. But rappelling off the sling totally 100% there with ya.

Tylerpratt wrote:

This is also what I have done but for some reason I thought it was taboo and always just told people to rap off biners... Of course being lowered off the sling is stuuuupid fucking dangerous so you should never do that though. But rappelling off the sling totally 100% there with ya.

It's taboo in climbing but well accepted and very common in canyoneering. LNT braj