Bail Beiners and quick links


Original Post
Kevin Kelley · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 0

Hey does anyone know what is the best types of quick links to buy for leaving on routes when you wanna try to save some cash?  Anything I should look for when buying quicklinks from a hardware store?  

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

Don't leave quick links on bolts if you bail. Leave a carabiner, instead.

BrianWS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 790

Quick links have a habit of freezing up and being very difficult to remove. They can crowd up the hanger, making it very difficult for the next climber to hang draws.

Don't f-up a climb for others, don't be a cheapskate. Leave old biners instead.

jarthur · · Westminster, CO · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 290

Don't listen to these holier than thou clowns. If you want a quick link goto any hardware store and pick them up for cheap, or just visit any Southeast crag where someone either bailed because it was too hard, or they had to bail because of bad weather and clean up after the other guy. These guys act as if you are starting some new trend and are about to embark on a trip where you plan on leaving a million quick links at every crag in your wake.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275
jarthur wrote:

Don't listen to these holier than thou clowns. If you want a quick link goto any hardware store and pick them up for cheap, or just visit any Southeast crag where someone either bailed because it was too hard, or they had to bail because of bad weather and clean up after the other guy. These guys act as if you are starting some new trend and are about to embark on a trip where you plan on leaving a million quick links at every crag in your wake.

Yes, when you disagree with someone, resort to name-calling. Good arguing technique. 

Tylerpratt · · Litchfield, Connecticut · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 35
jarthur wrote:

Don't listen to these holier than thou clowns. If you want a quick link goto any hardware store and pick them up for cheap, or just visit any Southeast crag where someone either bailed because it was too hard, or they had to bail because of bad weather and clean up after the other guy. These guys act as if you are starting some new trend and are about to embark on a trip where you plan on leaving a million quick links at every crag in your wake.

Said your neighbor when he shit in the river upstream. 

ColeT · · Cincinnati, OH · Joined May 2012 · Points: 35

I'll +1 for leaving biners. It is better ethics in my book. Hard to remove a quick link once it rusts or freezes up.

jmmlol · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 0

Backcountry and moosejaw almost always have some carabiners on sale for around $4.

Jake Jones · · Richmond, VA · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 1,430

Even leaving a biner should be a last resort.  If you're sport climbing- at least attempt to stick your way to the anchors first.  It's not the best style of course, but it'll keep you from leaving anything, and it also affords you the opportunity to work the entire route- including the part from which you wanted to bail.  

Any cheap biner will work.  

Don't leave quick links.

Hobo Greg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 115

I use bootied biners with duct tape for a leaver locker.

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 456

you can often find old used biners here on the for sale forum for a dollar or two. That's cheaper than quicklinks and doesn't come with all the issues of leaving quicklinks.

Mike Womack · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 1,486

In the 10 years or so that I've been climbing, I've bootied about 5 bail biners and 5 bail quicklinks.  Once I found a quicklink on a difficult climb waaaaayyyy in the middle of nowhere (super inconvenient) .  One of those crags that you pass dozens of other crags to get to...  Anyway, it was a 500 lb rated one (pretty tiny) and had been there for years. I'd guess at least 6 years. I took it off no problem.  This area is frozen 6 months of the year, was covered in rust, a no-name china brand and I got it off no problem.  I'm not saying quicklinks can't or don't get stuck, but if you don't tighten it down with magic voodoo power, it usually comes right off. 

That being said, caribiners are preferred for obvious reasons and it's a great reason to keep all of those old REI or chouinard ovals lying around.  But quicklinks aren't too bad.

This one here is probably the smallest I'd comfortably go with..      homedepot.com/p/National-Ha...;cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|B|0|B-BASE-D25H+Hardware|&mid=b2iiQtFi|dc_mtid_8903vry57826_pcrid_73873454275192_pkw__pmt_e_

nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 307

bring a stick clip

Mark E Dixon · · Sprezzatura, Someday · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 549
Mike Womack wrote:

In the 10 years or so that I've been climbing, I've bootied about 5 bail biners and 5 bail quicklinks.  Once I found a quicklink on a difficult climb waaaaayyyy in the middle of nowhere (super inconvenient) .  One of those crags that you pass dozens of other crags to get to...  Anyway, it was a 500 lb rated one (pretty tiny) and had been there for years. I'd guess at least 6 years. I took it off no problem.  This area is frozen 6 months of the year, was covered in rust, a no-name china brand and I got it off no problem.  I'm not saying quicklinks can't or don't get stuck, but if you don't tighten it down with magic voodoo power, it usually comes right off. 

That being said, caribiners are preferred for obvious reasons and it's a great reason to keep all of those old REI or chouinard ovals lying around.  But quicklinks aren't too bad.

This one here is probably the smallest I'd comfortably go with..      homedepot.com/p/National-Ha...;cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|B|0|B-BASE-D25H+Hardware|&mid=b2iiQtFi|dc_mtid_8903vry57826_pcrid_73873454275192_pkw__pmt_e_

This is a totally selfish, inconsiderate attitude. 

You spent how many hundreds of dollars to buy your gear, tens of dollars to drive to the crag and who knows how much on go pros and red bull?

But you would inconvenience every subsequent climber to save a couple of dollars by using a quick link instead of a cheap carabiner?

The sheer ingratitude offends me. Somebody spent $100 or more of their own money to put up a route and you think it's ok to screw it up to save a couple of dollars of your own?

kevin deweese · · Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 350

I mean, really just do the math. Not the "it's barely cheaper so it's better" math, the "how much am I actually saving in order to make the next climber's experience more difficult?" math. there is no one that would rather remove a bail quicklink from a bolt than remove a bail biner. 

Tylerpratt · · Litchfield, Connecticut · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 35

Mark said it and I was thinking it. I agree with him. Your saving like one or two fucking dollars.

AndrewArroz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10

Also, everyone is STOKED to booty a bail biner. Nobody is thrilled to find a quicklink. Make your fellow climbers happy, not sad. A couple bucks is nothing for that.

Mike Womack · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 1,486
Mark E Dixon wrote:

This is a totally selfish, inconsiderate attitude. 

You spent how many hundreds of dollars to buy your gear, tens of dollars to drive to the crag and who knows how much on go pros and red bull?

But you would inconvenience every subsequent climber to save a couple of dollars by using a quick link instead of a cheap carabiner?

The sheer ingratitude offends me. Somebody spent $100 or more of their own money to put up a route and you think it's ok to screw it up to save a couple of dollars of your own

Mark,  all I'm saying is that I've never been inconvenienced by stuck quicklinks on routes and on the one day that I am, I'll clip my draw under it and do what I can to remove it.  It's not that big of a deal.  Also, I've never left a quicklink on a route... ever.. I have left old caribiners though.. Occasionally, I'll keep a quicklink on me just in case, but it usually only goes to replacing quicklinks that have been stolen on anchors.  It's obviously the goal and I think we are on the same page for that.  I was just trying to add to the conversation by saying that quicklinks are not the worst thing ever.  I'd rather see shut quicklinks all day long than a single chipped hold, closed area, trashed area, stolen anchors, etc. 

What is this ingratitude thing about?  You're talking to someone who has cleaned and developed many many routes - always leaving areas better than when I found them. 

Mike Womack · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 1,486

To clarify, if someone leaves a quicklink instead of a biner when both are potential options PURELY to save a dollar or two, then that's not alright.  In many areas, it's common to have quicklinks as some part of the anchor system so bringing one around to replace stolen ones is OK.

MojoMonkey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 68
Mike Womack wrote:

Mark,  all I'm saying is that I've never been inconvenienced by stuck quicklinks on routes and on the one day that I am, I'll clip my draw under it and do what I can to remove it.

It appears I hit them more often than you, and they are not always so easy to deal with. I remember one at the NRG that managed to take up most of the hanger such that fitting my draw in wasn't an option. Clipping it to the rusted out junker was also not appealing. And this, like where most people bail, was on the bolt before the crux. I could not budge the gate while lowering from the route after.

But at least the guy that left it save a few bucks.

Nick Hitchcock · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 35

+1 on the stick clip...use one and grab other peoples bail biners....

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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