I'm gonna be climbing in squamish in July and just wanted to know what the local etiquette is for cleaning anchors. Looked around online but didn't get much answers. I always treat rappelling as the default (reduces wear), but some areas like the Red River Gorge advocate lowering, so I just want to know beforehand. Please refrain from posting if all you are going to do is rant. Just looking for some simple answers.
Unless you like being unnecessarily sketchy go ahead and lower off anchors, no matter where you're climbing. If someone tells you otherwise they're wrong. Watching gumbies try to clean a sport route while holding onto their brake strand scares me, and I'd prefer not to have to witness that carnage.
If you're really concerned about it go pick up some steel biners and switch out a worn anchor when you see it. If everyone bought a single steel biner a year this wouldn't be an issue.
I've always lowered there- the local coalition spends a huge amount of time maintaining the area, and I donate every year that I'm up there for anchor replacement.
Thanks a bunch John. That was exactly the answer I was looking for. I figured an area as popular as squamish would have a good anchor maintenance crew for replacing anchors. I will definitely donate to that.