Static line length for TR anchors


Original Post
Nate Doyle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0

I realize there are some posts around with suggestions but, these seem to be all over the map. Hope you don't mind one more:

I'm wondering if there is any consensus in regards to length of static line for top rope anchors.

And this for setting up advanced anchor rigging systems; The Joshua Tree System, The Lifeline System with Guide Tether et al.

For example, if you had 100m static line how would you slice it? 70/30? 60/40? Forget the whole thing, leave it whole and rappel to oblivion? (assuming you had any energy left after lugging it up the trail)

70/30 sounds good in my mind, for some odd reason (I think because my dynamic rope is 70m; scientific, I know) but, is 90ft~ enough for anchors? I've seen suggestions ranging from 40' up to 120' for anything you'd ever do in regards to setting up TR anchor systems; which is a fairly wide range and why the question...one...more...time.

Or should I quit bothering you people, cut it into 3 or 4 different length sections, be done with it and say adiós to any long raps or static line top roping?

Not sure it matters but, most of my climbing is in CA.

Thanks!

T Bloodstone · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 0

I have a 60m (9mm) static line, I bought specifically for setting up top rope anchors on the North Shore, MN. Some of the anchors there are pretty far back. I don't know what Cali is like so I can't help you. You have to decide where exactly you're going to use the rope and if cutting it into sections will work all around.  And it is not that heavy really. 

FYI: A 60m = 196 feet. 

20 kN · · Hawaii · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,128

There is no "consensus" because it's entirely application dependent. Some areas have pro available right at the top of the cliff, others require slinging trees 50' back. No one knows more about the areas you plan to climb in than you, so you're the best person to answer your question. If you plan to only require one TR anchor at a time, then leave it the full length. If you plan to require two at a time, then cut it in half. I certainly would not cut up a 100m static line though. I'd sell it and buy a more reasonable length of rope, or cut what I need and sell the rest. I dont know of any area anywhere that requires 100m of anchor material to build one anchor. If it does there probably should be some bolts on the top. If you do cut it know there is no need to cut the rope in two segments for one anchor. You can easily build an anchor with a single segment of rope, and leaving it the full length as opposed to cutting it in two pieces provides far more options. Say you're considering two 50' sections vs one 100' section. With the two 50's, the maximum distance any anchor could be from the master point is 50' (ignoring the knots). With a 100' single section, you could sling a small tree 70' back if you also found one that was only 30' away. You cant do that with two 50' sections. Hopefully that makes sense.

David · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 25

I got a 30m. Most of the gear lists for the AMGA SPI course, which teaches those systems, specify 30m (e.g. here). The AMC here buys 30m lengths too for their rock program. So far that length has been great for me in NE. Though, there's no downside to going longer though besides the weight and bulk, which might not matter much if you're toproping at a roadside crag.

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 200

Leave it long, it will always be long enough that way. :)

slevin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 928

I would also encourage you to not cut up your 70m static line. That's a versatile rope that can be used for other applications.

However, having a shorter static is nice if you are also carrying a dynamic rope, rack, etc. 

A versatile diameter/length is 9mm x 36m (approx. 120'). 

Sterling sells odd lengths of static rope from end-of-spool cuttings, "Nylon Prime Shorts":

https://sterlingrope.com/store/climb/ropes/static/safetypro/nylon-prime-shorts-2

Nate Doyle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0

Thanks for the feedback everyone!

Slevin, it's 100m right now. That's why I was thinking turning it into two; one at 70m and one at 30m. Either way, good to know about the Prime Shorts.

King Tut/20 kN, I think I'll lug it around for awhile to see how it feels and how it manages before I do anything.

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 200
Nate Doyle wrote:

Thanks for the feedback everyone!

Slevin, it's 100m right now. That's why I was thinking turning it into two; one at 70m and one at 30m. Either way, good to know about the Prime Shorts.

King Tut/20 kN, I think I'll lug it around for awhile to see how it feels and how it manages before I do anything.

Actually, when I posted I was thinking it was 70M as that is a very useful length.

So 70/30 is very reasonable.

Even 60/40 would be fine. If it ever got used (or sold to another to be used) I'm pretty sure 60m is perfectly fine for a haul line on virtually any route.

What is the diameter?

Nate Doyle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0

It's a 10mm. I have a 9.7mm dynamic and the static actually seems thinner. I'm sure it will fatten up over time, however.

ETA: I only mention the thickness difference from the point of it being curious/interesting.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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