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Black Hills & Devil's Tower trad rack essentials?

Original Post
Daniel James · · Chicago · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 95

Hey all!  

Since what's on people's trad racks tend to be highly regional, I was wondering if there was any particular gear outside the standard 'your first trad rack' that is recommended for general trad climbing in the Black Hills and/or Devil's Tower, or things that people really like having doubles or more on? I'd like to make sure I can generally feel able to protect routes safely for times when I'm supplying all the gear.  Regarding Devil's Tower I'm looking at routes through the 5.8 and low 9 range since I've gathered that makes a difference for gear. 

For reference what I have now/imminently is as follows ( except swapping the biner with small cams with mastercams #0-4 and an orange alien)

Cams: BD C4s in #0.5-3, old camalots in #3.5, 2@#4, and #4.5, as well as 6 rigid friends effectively doubling the C4 0.5-4 range. Mastercams #0-4 and an orange alien.

Nuts: DMM #1-11, full set of DMM offsets, plus a mix of extra old nuts

Hexes: Hexentrics #4-11 with doubles on #6-10, as well as the set of DMM hexes

Tricams: pink to blue

Slings: mostly 2', one 4', but can make more



PS:  If anyone is looking for a climbing partner for any of the Black Hills+Devils Tower from mid June to mid August, PM me!  I'll be based out of Custer. 

jdereks · · Minnesota · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 70

Hey Daniel, 

Like you said - it completely depends on the route. What you have should be more than sufficient for anything in the hills. I'm no expert on the area so maybe someone else will chime in but I stitched up classic crack in the outlets with doubles to 2. 

KyleMFSpurgeon · · Syracuse, NY · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 25

Smaller gear can be extremely helpful in the Hills, depending on the route. I made fair use of BD .3, and could have used the smaller C3 or X4 for sure. The DMM offsets are gold out there as well. 

Fritz Nuffer · · Durango, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 115

You probably know this already, but here's a friendly reminder of the "voluntary closure" at DT in June.

Daniel James · · Chicago · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 95

Sweet thats great to hear! And re Devils Tower thats what July and August are for, but still good to remind/inform people

Lewis H · · rapid city, SD · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 5

When your here, feel free to hit me up if your short on partners. Most trad gear should work for this area

dreed05 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 100

At the Tower, anything in the 5.8-5.9 range is going to take hand to fist sized gear. If you're getting into so OW's, then plan accordingly as well. For 5.9 at the Tower, Walt Bailey will blow your mind. Tips to thin hands in ~160ft. DO THIS, even if some may say it's a bit harsh for 5.9. For the classic face climbs in the hills, a standard rack with a set of RPs and micro cams will do you well for most things in that range. 

Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175

climbing friend,

be sure youa re developing a set of "massive nuts" for steadying yourself when on a strung out lead runout.

"Every man must make his own choices. Every man must climb his own mountain."

- Herman Buhl

- John Long

- Aleks Zebastian

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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