Mountain Project Logo

American fork vs. Logan canyon?


Original Post
Mr. Stevens · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 1,135

We've got 2-3 days, but don't know much about either of these places, just that the climbing is great.  Does this type of wall(s) exist in either place...

All day or afternoon shade

Quality routes 5.11a-5.12d

Vertical and/or slightly overhung - not a big fan of roofs or steep cave climbing 

Lots of pockets and crimps

Long or short approaches, doesn't matter

sfotex · · Sandy, UT · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 225

The closest one to you....I live next to AF and have been to Logan Canyon ~ dozen times.  Not worth the drive for me, but on the other hand if I lived in Logan I wouldn't be driving to AF either, especially if you throw  Blacksmith Fork Canyon (awesome area!)  into the mix. Either way there's crags of all aspects and easy to follow shade/sun. 

JimG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 0

I agree with what sfotex said.  Either one is good, AF is close for me so I climb there more, but have always enjoyed Logan.  Bingo Baby in AF or 385 in Logan would have what you are looking for, but plenty of other good walls as well.  Have a good visit.

Ben Ricketts · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 30

I'm not familiar with Logan canyon but in AF the Blue Walls and Forgotten trails fit your description of shady and slightly overhanging.  

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/forgotten-trails/106059730

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-blue-walls/106951062

However, you will have to cross the river to get to these walls and I am not sure of the best way to do this at the moment.  The water is high and dangerous right now.  Maybe someone else can chime in with beta for getting across.

SM Ryan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,090

The Hardware wall in Blacksmith Canyon.  Shade most of the day, (part of the wall gets early sun) and there areclimbs from mid-11 to 13.  IMO, Greyhound and Gray Matter are excellent. Beta for wall is on MP.  

Jordan Gilbert · · Logan, UT · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 260
SM Ryan wrote:

The Hardware wall in Blacksmith Canyon.  Shade most of the day, (part of the wall gets early sun) and there areclimbs from mid-11 to 13.  IMO, Greyhound and Gray Matter are excellent. Beta for wall is on MP.  

Second this.  Hardware is basically always in the shade, is overhung but not cave-like and has incredible routes in the high 11 to low 13 range.  Greyhound is amazing!

Julianna Jimreivat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0

I second what Ben said! Blue walls are perfect for what you are looking for. I was there today and the log was crossable, but starting to get wet on the lower half. Probably not crossable in just a week or two

Ben Ricketts wrote:

I'm not familiar with Logan canyon but in AF the Blue Walls and Forgotten trails fit your description of shady and slightly overhanging.  

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/forgotten-trails/106059730

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-blue-walls/106951062

However, you will have to cross the river to get to these walls and I am not sure of the best way to do this at the moment.  The water is high and dangerous right now.  Maybe someone else can chime in with beta for getting across.

NRobl · · Hyrum, UT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 0

I also recommend Logan: blacksmith fork-left hand fork especially.  As mentioned previously, hardware wall will have what you're looking for, but blacksmith wall also has 11-13 range climbs as well and is shaded all day.  Much easier to camp in Blacksmith than American fork as well, and considerably less crowded.  You can camp right by the crags in Blacksmith.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply

Log In to Reply