Am I gunna die? Wear and tear on ATC


Original Post
scienceguy288 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 20

My ATC has seen some stuff over its lifetime.  Is this normal wear and tear to the anodization or is it time for a replacement?  I'm mainly concerned about some of the more linear scratches near the tubes which probably came from it rubbing on a rock crystal as these might actually come into contact with rope.

Response/Solution:The wear to be most concerned about on any tubular belay device is on the inner surface of the rope slots. Look for sharp edges developing on the load strand side of the device i.e. towards the climber (when belaying/lowering) or anchor (when rappelling). This wear will occur faster on devices used exclusively in high friction mode, with the device oriented the same way each use. 

The first generation Petzl Reverso was notorious for developing a very sharp edge at the rope slots, although I have now retired several ATC Guide devices with the same issue.

 

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 45

1. That's a Reverso.

2. It looks barely touched.  I don't see anything that is remotely concerning or warranting of replacement .

3. Yer gunna die (but not from this ;) ).

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 1,865

The color hasn't even worn off inside!!

Jorge Jordan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2011 · Points: 20

It looks like it's strictly been used for banging against rock, without ever being employed belaying or rappelling.

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 25

It is almost brand new.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 15

If you're concerned or worried, buy a new one. They aren't that expensive.

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 615

I'll take it from you for $5 shipped

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0

Looks like Gym wear, from a heavy partner tbh.

Nate Doyle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0

How many rope miles do you have on it? I ask because once you've reached 100,000 rope miles you'll probably want to take in and have it serviced at the dealership.

NegativeK · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 0
Nate Doyle wrote:

How many rope miles do you have on it? I ask because once you've reached 100,000 rope miles you'll probably want to take in and have it serviced at the dealership.

It's less than 100k if you haven't been oiling your rope every 6,000 miles.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 1,865
Nick Sweeney wrote:

I'll take it from you for $5 shipped

I'll go $6

Abdullah Mourad · · Elk Grove, CA · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0
Gunkiemike wrote:

I'll go $6

Tree fiddy.

ben schuldt · · Joplin, MO · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 5
Gunkiemike wrote:

I'll go $6

$7 shipped.

ClimbingOn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 0
ben schuldt wrote:

$7 shipped.

I'll go $8.50 shipped if you'll include the carabiner that looks brand new.

Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 0

For real though. There is a lot of wear on the outside, which is totally safe, but hardly any wear on the inside. Climbing lots of chimneys? 

grog m aka Greg McKee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 0

Teeth don't even look worn. No rubs on the inside. Looks like harness jewelery. The main ATC concerns are when the cable looks worn. 

But since you climb 5.12 and V6 you probably knew that ; )

scienceguy288 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 20
Ryan Hamilton wrote:

For real though. There is a lot of wear on the outside, which is totally safe, but hardly any wear on the inside. Climbing lots of chimneys? 

Not really.  I do most of my climbing in dirty ADK rock, though, so it might come into fairly regular contact with sharp crystals when I backstep.  It's probably about 3 years old at this point with fairly regular shoulder season use (i.e., ADK climbing season).

Michael Schneider · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 85
                                Ted Pinson wrote:

1. That's a Reverso.

2. It looks barely touched.  I don't see anything that is remotely concerning or warranting of replacement .

3. Yer gunna die (but not from this ;) ).

 I saw this post drop, I can't grab a picture, but . . GunkieMike . ..you have to have a worn out one that you could post a pic. of?

   I must have sharpened; wore out, blew thru three a year,  running TRs way before Ski-Minnie , ah.. I mean . Peterskill was legal....

Joe Garibay · · Ventura, Ca · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 45

Mine is not nearly that worn out on outside and yet my groves are wearing down pretty good. I'll post a pic in a bit. 

  If you're concerned with rough metal, grab a rock or file and give it a nice rub down until the burrs are gone

Jon H · · MD/DC · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 13
scienceguy288 wrote:

Not really.  I do most of my climbing in dirty ADK rock, though, so it might come into fairly regular contact with sharp crystals when I backstep.  It's probably about 3 years old at this point with fairly regular shoulder season use (i.e., ADK climbing season).

Do you ever belay your partner or do you just solo everything? Because that reverso literally looks like it's never had a rope run through it. I can't imagine that thing has belayed more than 5 pitches in its entire life. The anodization inside the tubes and on the friction teeth is utterly untouched/immaculate. 

slevin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 928
grog m aka Greg McKee wrote:

The main ATC concerns are when the cable looks worn. 

Actually, the wear to be most concerned about on any tubular belay device is on the inner surface of the rope slots. Look for sharp edges developing on the load strand side of the device i.e. towards the climber (when belaying/lowering) or anchor (when rappelling). This wear will occur faster on devices used exclusively in high friction mode, with the device oriented the same way each use. 

The first generation Petzl Reverso was notorious for developing a very sharp edge at the rope slots, although I have now retired several ATC Guide devices with the same issue. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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