Best moderates in Ten Sleep?


Original Post
Nathan Witt · · Roanoke, Va · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 10

This summer, I'll be driving west from Virginia and staying at the Leigh Creek Campground June 19-23. I will have a guidebook with me but would really like to hear from some locals. What are some must-do single pitch classic sport moderates in the area? I max out at 5.11c on lead, so be gentle.

Lena chita · · Cleveland, OH · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 240

Circus in the Wind, 11a
BIkini Girls with Machine Guns 11b
Some boys never learn ~10c to the first anchor
Big Yellow Butterfly, 11a to the second anchor, 10 to the first
Slightly Toasted Cracker, 11c
I just do eyes, 11b?
Eldorado Coral Club, 10c
Crossbow Chaos Theory, 11a

Forgot:
Loki, 11c

LLubchenco · · Lander, wy · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 10

Go to spearfish. Don't waste your time on that Tensleep garbage

wendy weiss · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 0

I'm not a local. Have only climbed there once. But definitely Bikini Girls with Machine Guns.

sauggie AA · · Ohio · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 70

Beer Bong 10b

Euro-trash Girl 10b

edanner · · Fort Collins, Colorado · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

The bolts are so close in ten sleep your max grade doesn't matter. I second every climb mention. You really cant go wrong in ten sleep. I have just started picking walls and trying to climb them all no matter how many stars the route is. 

Bikini girls 11b 

Beer bong 10b

Thor 10a (This climb is a must. I do it every time I go to ten sleep) 

Jesus Christ super jew 11b (70 meter rope needed) 

Ice station zebra 5.9 with a second pitch that i think goes at 10a

Schools out 5.10d (massive roof with big moves on the biggest jugs) 

Every route on the back 40 wall 

B1 bomber 11a (sharp and fun) 

Lena chita · · Cleveland, OH · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 240
LLubchenco wrote:

Go to spearfish. Don't waste your time on that Tensleep garbage

Hahahaha! I must not have found the good places in Spearfish. 

Nathan Witt · · Roanoke, Va · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 10

Thanks guys, and don't worry...I'll be stopping off for a day in South Dakota on the way there and will let everyone know my humble opinion with the comparison. Looking forward to dolostone pockets!

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,037
LLubchenco wrote:

Go to spearfish. Don't waste your time on that Tensleep garbage

IMO, Spearfish sucks, that Tensleep garbage is way better than spearfish.

Glenn Schuler · · Monument, Co. · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,070
LLubchenco wrote:

Don't waste your time on that Tensleep garbage

LOL, yea what a complete chosspile!!

LLubchenco · · Lander, wy · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 10

Ive always heard gold streaks are softer. a little slabby too don't you think?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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