Best RRG crags for rainy days 5.10-5.11


Original Post
Outdrgear · · Purcellville, VA · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 230

Hello Mountain Project family,

My wife and I will be heading to the Red for the first time this weekend. The weather forecast is looking a little touch and go so I was reaching out to see what you all think are the best crags to climb at in the rain with 5.10-5.11 climbing. Let the beta spray begin! I know no one want s to give up the secret spot, just hoping to get a few good suggestions. Thanks!!

Derrick Keene · · Kentucky · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 90

Bruise Borthers @ Muir Valley, Chica Bonita's left side @PMRP, or look for overhanging walls with good sun cover so rain won't blow in on the wall.

Kim Ran · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 430

Military Wall stays dry as well. I've also climbed at Drive-By on rainy days and some of the climbs at the Gallery stay dry too. 

Tim Fry · · Charlotte NC · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 15

The Infirmary in Miller Fork stays dry and has lots of .11s. 

Outdrgear · · Purcellville, VA · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 230

Thanks everyone for the recommendations. Hopefully this will help us find some dry rock this weekend!!!! 

Jon H · · MD/DC · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 123

Bibliotek Wall stays completely dry as long as the rain is falling vertically and there is no wind to blow the rain back into the wall. It's stacked with great 10 and 11 routes. I've climbed there in the pouring rain.

John Conzone · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 60

Not to be a wet blanket but I went thru this drill last weekend at RRG. Basically anything that is "dry" (and that is a realtive term) is also gonna be like Coney Island on the 4th of July. We had people right up on us ridiculous moving our bags covering them. So if you like climbing elbow to elbow with someone have fun. Totally ruined it for me. I kept hearing "the RRG is still good when it rains" Baloney in my opinion.

Jon H · · MD/DC · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 123

The RRG is absolutely enormous. If you got stuck with crowds you were in the wrong spot. I climbed this weekend through all the rain storms and flash flood warnings and most of the time, we were climbing in total isolation other than the occasional passers by looking for dry routes.

Although, I will admit that if your profile is accurate, there is certainly much less 5.9 terrain that stays dry compared to slightly harder grades. Even a small jump to 5.10c/d opens up much more rainy day terrain.

John Conzone · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 60

Yes, Jon. I agree. Our guide stuck to Muir Valley wasn't the best guide in the world, so I have to agree with you Jon. More a inexperienced or lazy guide than anything else

Josh Lipko · · Charlotte · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 10
John Conzone wrote:

Yes, Jon. I agree. Our guide stuck to Muir Valley wasn't the best guide in the world, so I have to agree with you Jon. More a inexperienced or lazy guide than anything else

I don't know that you can fault the guide for the fact that easier terrain at the RRG is not steep enough to stay dry in the rain.  

Derrick Keene · · Kentucky · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 90
Josh Lipko wrote:

I don't know that you can fault the guide for the fact that easier terrain at the RRG is not steep enough to stay dry in the rain.  

Exactly Josh!

John your guide took you to one of the best possible walls that has easy routes and also stays dry. If you don't like climbing with large groups then get strong or go home

DrRockso · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 326

John,

The rain can put a damper on anyone's climbing experience, I wish you would have had better luck with the weather on your trip. 

Unfortnately options for 5.8 and under climbs are limited at the Red after heavy rain, you came after 2 days on nonstop rain, the few times a year this happens we do experience some seepage through the porous Corbin sandstone. Most people would agree Muir offers the most options for moderates in the rain, so that is why I took you and your girlfriend there. You can expect on wet spring Saturdays to have crowds at the best quality moderate routes that stay dry, it's probably a far cry from the more secluded North Carolina crags you may be used to. For many the crowds at the Red on high quality moderates are just a part of the game, generally we work around other parties very successfully on rainy days and our clients experience very little wait time waiting for routes. I took you to 3 of the only 4 dry crags in Muir Valley with routes within your grade range that were dry. I understand your frustration with the crowds at certain walls, but when I took you to a wall with 6 people at it you said it was still too crowded. After that we went to a wall with no people and you decided to not climb. Any of the guides working in the Red will tell you I am one of hardest working and most knowledge guides at the Red. I hope your experience with the Red is better next time. Cheers! 

BigCountry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 20

Haha oh man! Good on you for a well written response doc. Pretty damn friendly to. I remember being a guide and being blamed for uncontrollable situations or people's own limitations. One reason I burned out of that gig. I don't have the tendency to be as nice or well spoken as some others though. Of course if I lived in Charlotte I'd probably be an asshole too. John you'll wanna stay away from gfather and anywhere in Linville except table rock the chimneys and maybe amphitheater. Routes are all crowded wet and hard everywhere else.

Jon H · · MD/DC · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 123
DrRockso wrote:

John,

The rain can put a damper on anyone's climbing experience, I wish you would have had better luck with the weather on your trip. 

Unfortnately options for 5.8 and under climbs are limited at the Red after heavy rain 

Top class response, I couldn't have said it better myself. And it has nothing to do with RRG... I can't think of ANYWHERE with any variety of 5.8 and easier sport climbs that stay dry in the rain. In fact, RRG is probably the single best crag in America for that specific requirement. I'm sorry your client wasn't realistic with his expectations.

John Conzone · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 60

Well first, I stand duly chastised for my inexperienced comments and rude behavior. Josh I apologize. And we did go visit Josh at the Krag and we were not cheap with the tip either. My choice of words were poor. Apologies frustration got the better of me. I had a great time at The Krag too. I didn't climb the last climb because it was over my head so i decided to go run 7 miles instaed. I needed some exercise. I got lost but it was a good workout.

John H, clients expectations are set my management. As with any business. I am new climber of 4 months but push hard, like I did learning to surf as a kidon Long Island. So when I am told plenty of stuff to climb in rain I believe it. Why should I not? But that was guy running outfitter said that, not guide. Next morning woke up raining we just left. My girlfirend is much better climber and she was uncomfortable with people moving bags, covering our stuff too she was actually one who wanted to move. I was just goingto elbow someone out of the way, lol! Heck Josh they even moved your rope bag back 20 feet got your rope all inthe wet mud.

The last climbs were over my head so I figure I'd let her climb and go run and I did and it was great. 

Live and learn. When the owner told us we should have gone somewhere else how was I know he was full of it? So maybe he is one who yanked chain. Anyway my comments about Josh were wrong and distasteful and embarrassing

. I deserved the pitchforks. He is a great kid and a good guide.

I would look Josh up again we got his number and I personally liked you and knowing what I know now I would never had said that. I just thought there was "so much there" how come we're not on it? And climbing with people shoulder to shoulder is not my thing. I'm not sure what get strong or go home means.....but if it means climbing and fighting for a spot at the foot of the crag I'll go home. 

Oh, and Big Country, I'm from New York so get your asshole locations correct.  Although it does say Charlotte I work there a lot.

I've noticed in climbing, both in gym and out, there are people who welcome in newcomers, and then the cliques who look down on anyone who can't climb 5.10 or better. I doubt many people started at 5.10+ level. 

Regardless I was way out of line, was being an ahole, and apologize and ask you accept it Josh.

Best

John


Ryan M Moore · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 35

Wow, so much civility in one thread. I can't handle it.

 What do you guys think about chopping all the bolts that can be lead on gear in the red and using those bolts to fix the run outs on North Carolina's bolted trad lines?

That should fix it.

John Conzone · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 60

Ryan, I am not sure about bolts in NC and stuff haven't been around enough. I just busted my right tibia Saturday in two places (non displaced thank goodness) climbing top rope on Davids Castle middle route. How I fell 20 feet while on top rope is a mystery to me.

Anyway I was taught that if you make a mistake stand up and admit it like a man and take your medicine. This is one of those cases. Can never be too much civility in this world.

Parker Wrozek · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 83

Hope you found good rock. We climbed all day sat and sun staying dry.  The hardest part was trying to find dry enough rock, many times you would be going good only to hit damp to wet sections...made for some spicy leads.

BigCountry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 20

John let's see how this fits and for this and your other forum..

If you run into an asshole in the morning, well you ran into an asshole. If you run into assholes all day, you're the asshole. Quote Raylan Givens

You might be one of the more condescending assholes who's new to climbing. 

And in the words of Arlow Givens, "You don't know sheit!"

ColeT · · Cincinnati, OH · Joined May 2012 · Points: 35
BigCountry wrote:

John let's see how this fits and for this and your other forum..

If you run into an asshole in the morning, well you ran into an asshole. If you run into assholes all day, you're the asshole. Quote Raylan Givens

You might be one of the more condescending assholes who's new to climbing. 

And in the words of Arlow Givens, "You don't know sheit!"

+1

John Conzone · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 60

Am I supposed to be angry, or reply in kind? Naw. 

Yup, I don't know shit about climbing 5 months is nothing. Yup, should have kept my mouth shut. But I at least admit that, and apologized which is more than most "assholes" do. What do I know? I paid a lot of money and got to climb twice. Shit happens excuse me if I was a little pissed. No, I'm not gonna apologize for that. You would be too. Not the kids fault now I see, and I said what I had to say to him. 

I've been called an asshole (and a lot of other things) before and this is probably not the last time either. We all have our moments Big and Cole. You mention my other "forum" where I broke my leg. And in the end it was my fault. So please, do better than asshole that one doesn't even ding me anymore. I love how people talk big on the net. You know I'm actually I hell of a nice guy, and if you had said that to me in person (even though if you met me you never would) I would have given you same response. You're right, sometimes I am an asshole, and apologized and asked to buy you a beer.

So hopefully the climbing elite feel better now. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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