Self-belay


Original Post
Gregory Medak · · Schoharie, NY · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 5

For those times when you really want to climb, but can't seem to find a partner. 

My only self belay involved anchoring one end of the rope to the top of the climb, putting the rope through a grigri and then climbing. As I climb and get a good rest, I take one hand and pull the slack through. I understand a grigri is assited locking, not autolocking, but the cam does a very good job of sinching. A much more experience climber then myself recommended using ascenders as a form of hands free self belay. But that's not a piece of gear I own. Does anybody have any bombar techniques for self belay they want to share? 

Old lady H · · Boise, Idaho · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 265

Anything involving a grigri, tie backup knots. Also be wary of carabiner cross loading. I've noticed that the grigri loves to cross load pretty precisely on the carabiner gate, when there is a bit of slack. This is when setting in the gym, so not much risk, but biners have broken in rope solo falls.

Best, OLH

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

There have been numerous threads about "top rope solo." A search on MP Will provide a wealth of information.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,740

Petzl Basic... the previous version where the top biner goes around the rope and through both sides of the device.  No pulling the rope through between moves!  When Petzl changed the design of that upper hole (to be more like the Croll) they stopped "approving" it for solo TR belay.  PM me if you want how-to on this, and/or buy one of these from me ($45). Note - no second device needed for "back-up) if you have enough rope for a second strand to hang down the route; clip into F8 loops on that every 20 feet or so.

Ed Henicle · · Santa Rosa, CA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 1,285
that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 205

Just get a micro traxion.

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20

BD Gridlock with the small hoop through GG hole works quite well at preventing cross-loading

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 205
amarius wrote:

BD Gridlock with the small hoop through GG hole works quite well at preventing cross-loading

hate my bd gridlock it's constantly cross-loading, it cross loads and then after 10 seconds or so it slip into it's correct positions scared the shit out of me when it first happened as i didn't realize it was the biner i though i  de-sheathed my rope! If you want a biner to not cross load the best biner out there is the dmm belay master. 

Mike · · Phoenix · Joined May 2006 · Points: 2,615

IMHO the best way to avoid cross-loading the 'biner is to use a quicklink. It's plenty strong when side-loaded, small enough to rotate through the grigri hole, and only costs a few bucks. Of course it is a bit of a hassle to open and close, but you should only be doing that on terra firma anyway.

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 285
Mike wrote:

IMHO the best way to avoid cross-loading the 'biner is to use a quicklink. It's plenty strong when side-loaded, small enough to rotate through the grigri hole, and only costs a few bucks. Of course it is a bit of a hassle to open and close, but you should only be doing that on terra firma anyway.

Rather than just any quicklink you really want a CE-rated, stainless 10mm quicklink / mallion rapide.

wivanoff · · Northeast, USA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 472

To avoid cross loading a 'biner, I use a length of 7mm cord. I pass it through the ascender attachment and my belay loop 3 times and finish the ends with a flat overhand. So, the 7mm cord is tripled. 'Course the ascender can't have sharp edges at attachment.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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