THE RED MULTIPITCH


Original Post
Rebecca Corn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0

Heading to the Red in a couple of weeks and looking for a moderate multipitch 5.7-5.9ish. Any suggestions would be awesome. 

Timothy Nooney · · Denver, CO · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 45

Fortress Wall is a good option. You'll find it in the North book. I think the most you can get is two pitches off the deck. There isn't too much multipitch down there, it's more of a single pitch destination. You can also check out Roadside attraction (5.7), but be sure to fill out a permit before you go to Roadside.  

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Roadside goes in one pitch...the first set of anchors is pointless.  Good if you're trying to practice MP transitions, but not a real multipitch climb.  I have a feeling the same applies to the Fortress Wall stuff.

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,530

Yeah, the cliffs at the Red top out at 200' or so, multi pitch really isnt what I'd shoot for down there. Definitely chase 4 star routes in the guide, regardless of length for the best experience. 

DrRockso · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 326

We have a couple ~300' cliffs around. Namely Eagle Point Buttress which houses the longest route in the Red "Day Trippin', 10b" at 270' 3 distinct pitches. Right around the corner is Fox Fire which goes at 5.7, 5 short pitches or 3 longer pitches with a bit of rope drag. 250'. Ravens Rock houses a few longer routes, the most popular of which is "Nevermore 5.9+R 200' " Don't get scared by the R, It is pretty well protected and would not even garner PG13 IMO. The Quest at Middle Small Wall clocks in at 2-3 pitches 10c, sandbagged and often wet, I would avoid this one, Lower Small Wall however does offer some easier multi's "Good Tang, 5.7 150' "is highly recommended, as well as Blue Biner, and Dicey at Best. The ever popular Caver's route tops out Tower Rock and goes at 5.3R. It is done in as many as 5 pitches but offers little protection besides natural belays for your second, for this reason it is often soloed by people comfortable at the chimneying.   Full Moon at Half Moon Rock is a good little adventure I think it goes at ~5.8 and can be split into as many as 3 pitches. "360 Rock" as hikers are calling it now days offers two multi-pitches, search for Buzzards Roost South and Buzzards Roost North (5.8), the North being the higher quality of the two, rap down in from hidden anchors on the North and climb back out to one of the most spectacular views in the Red. A few easily accessible multi's exist at Muir Valley, my favorite of which is "Indesicion, 5.8 130' 2-3 pitches" Jewel Pinnacle is another neat feature, "Diamond in the Crack, 120' 5.7" is the most popular path and can be done in 1 long pitch or 2 shorter, be prepared for a difficult approach by RRG standards, especially in the summer. Military has a couple classics, G.I. goes at 5.7, 2 pitches, and Jungle Beat  goes at sandbagged 5.9+. 

Have fun out there!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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