Easy trad towers/multipitch near Moab


Original Post
Brendan Chura · · Sacramento CA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0

Heading out to stay in arches in a few weeks. Looking for a few desert towers and would love to find some easy multi.  Can comfortably lead 5.7 on gear. Have a single rack BD .3-3 but don't mind buying a larger piece if a specific route needed it. Full set of nuts and hexes at well. 

Looking for something maybe less crowded so I don't slow anyone up? Have some multi-pitch experience but not quick yet. Been combing MP and was looking at a few 5.6 towers but anything specific and fun I should look at?

Adam Fleming · · Moab, Utah · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 303

Towers within your limit: Owl Rock (no chalk!), the Molar (if you can chimney or want to learn.  Not trad, and not quite a tower)

Multipitch: Looking Glass Rock, stuff in the San Rafael Swell.

Doubles are nice to have here, especially on multipitch.  Be prepared to get shut down if you're not used to climbing sandstone (foot and handjams).

Brendan Chura · · Sacramento CA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0

Thanks Adam, much appreciated. All that stuff in San Rafael looks amazing and I'll definitely check it out.

Bridger Bjorklund · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0

Brendan, I will be in Moab Friday for a couple weeks and am looking for climbing partners! I have some big cams, I would love to do some towers with you. Give me a call/text if interested.

507-402-2426

bridger

Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,430

Most of the 5.7ish towers are going to be a lot more serious than typical 5.7 trad cragging routes, and will require more than 1 set of cams.  

Owl Rock is a sandbag for a 5.7 leader - more like steep physical 5.8 that would be best with a double set and a 4 camalot.  Protects well with enough gear, and hexes actually work ok.

South Sixshooter at Indian Creek would work with a single rack - just be aware that the mantel move is pretty heads up for 5.7.

Impish in the Fisher Towers is easy and gives you a taste of that strange place.

Most of the easy looking routes in the Swell are runout and on soft rock.  Good reasonably safe options are Tiki Tower with a bolted short crux, Mother Goose- Nursery Rhymes, and the easiest and best protected routes(look at the most popular ones and read descriptions carefully) in the Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The Sandstone Alps.  

Window Blind Peak - North Rib is amazing, but difficult and serious for 5.7 - tricky climbing and questionable rock and gear with a monster approach.  You'll want to borrow a few more cams.

Tombo · · Boulder · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 225

In Arches Off Balance Rock has NorthEast Chimney (I thought is was a bit harder than the 5.7 rating.  Bullwinkle has West Chimney.  Tonka Tower is rated 5.8 C0 if you pull on the bolts.

A. Roberts · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 795

Willis Tower is in that 5.7/5.8 range, if you can find it. 

T Bloodstone · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 0

Put Looking Glass Arch on your list. 3 pitches of easy 5.6. Do the rap then do the rope swing. 

Check out the videos on YouTube:

Brendan Chura · · Sacramento CA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0

Thanks for all the suggestions folks... heading out tomorrow and looking forward to some of these adventures!!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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