Mountain Project Logo

New to Sandstone/Moab


Original Post
Lewis H · · rapid city, SD · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 5

My brother and I will be in moab area on a trip and wanted to try out some sandstone. We are fairly new to climbing and have only climbed granite before (Blacks hills SD). I can lead 5.7 on granite but I don't think the transition will alow leading 5.7. I will only be able to do sport or TR. No trad. Any tips of how to make the transition to sandstone or areas in moab that you think would be suitable for us would be great!

Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 20

Try some of the easier grades on Wall Street (Potash Rd.) There are some bolted routes. Be warned though, some of them see a lot of traffic so the holds have gotten a bit worn making some of the 5.6's more like 5.8. Get there early otherwise the sun will melt you in the afternoon. It's a south facing wall with the shortest approach in all of rock climbing (you could belay from your car) Nice for having food and cold beverages close at hand. 

Lewis H · · rapid city, SD · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 5
Ryan Hamilton wrote:

Try some of the easier grades on Wall Street (Potash Rd.) There are some bolted routes. Be warned though, some of them see a lot of traffic so the holds have gotten a bit worn making some of the 5.6's more like 5.8. Get there early otherwise the sun will melt you in the afternoon. It's a south facing wall with the shortest approach in all of rock climbing (you could belay from your car) Nice for having food and cold beverages close at hand. 

Thanks for the info Ryan. I'm not used to climbing in a new area that gets super hot or busy. I looked at wall Street and it suites me so I'll try to check it out.

apoet · · AZ · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 193

The schoolroom slabs at Wall Street would be perfect to start on. 

Lewis H · · rapid city, SD · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 5
apoet wrote:

The schoolroom slabs at Wall Street would be perfect to start on. 

I looked it up on here and they look great to get the feeling of sandstone. Thanks!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply

Log In to Reply