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Best Gunks Routes During Light Rain Conditions (5.4 - 5.7)

Original Post
Ben Hoste · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 486

I am climbing with my father this weekend including Monday. It is slated to rain throughout the day on Monday, but it sounds like just a drizzle on and off. Are there routes (5.4 - 5.7) that anyone recommends that are sheltered a bit from the rain or dry quickly?


Bob Johnson · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 98

You could check out the first pitch of Han's Puss. That is pretty blocky and is sheltered by the huge roof system above it. Also, that is right next to the Arrow wall, which seems to dry pretty fast because it doesn't have any tree coverage. Arch and Bloody Bush are others that are somewhat sheltered by overhanging terrain and are pretty blocky as well.

In general, the rock that is orangish in color seems to dry the fastest and has the best friction even when a little wet. The whitish/grayish rock that is kinda pebbly that is at the base of many routes has some lichen coverage and get's pretty slippery and slimy when wet. So for example, the first pitch of Frog's Head is probably a little sketchy after rain, but the second pitch is probably fine. Anyway, I recently climbed No Picnic and Shit or Go Blind (both are in the Uberfall and climb orange rock) in between drizzles recently and thought they were completely fine.

Ben Hoste · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 486

Thanks Bob! These are some great suggestions. Appreciate it. I had forgotten about Han's Puss. That's a great climb that I think my dad will really enjoy. No Picnic and Shit or Go Blind are also good ideas, I was thinking that maybe sticking to single pitch stuff on Monday is best to deal with drizzle. 

Logan Schiff · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 60

Not sure how fast Han's Puss gets wet in light rain, but it stays moist and a bit slimy on the traverse for a while after rain, though still doable and fun.

Arrow P1 dries out fast.

SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 252

They won't stay dry, but you can toprope all the stuff near Keyhole, Nice 5.7, etc, very easily, even if it is soaking wet.

dave custer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 840

Le Plie in the Nears has recently sported a bail anchor before heading out from under the big roofs. Bonnie's Roof and Airy Aria are a tad stouter than 5.7 but their first pitches can be "dry" at the onset of a light rain...

tradjunkie · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2011 · Points: 0

The Hans' Puss traverse is on P2 though. You can bail from the chains at P1, and all but the last few feet of climbing stay dry.

Christopher Woodall · · Somerville, MA · Joined May 2015 · Points: 141

Sadly, it is in the closure, but Asphodel (5.5) stays pretty dry in rain.

Michael Schneider · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 785
Christopher Woodall wrote:

Sadly, it is in the closure, but Asphodel (5.5) stays pretty dry in rain.

Asphodel, may start as a  .  .  . ?5.5?  .   .   . But changes when its wet, it catches rain and water runs from the top , crux (5.7+-5.8) which will be too slick, but may go French-free, ymmv?

Similar thread more ideas. . .

Kevin Heckeler · · Upstate New York · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,411

Asphodel is also in the current closure(?).

And I agree with Michael, it's notorious for seeping.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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