Bail anchors: Dyneema slings directly into nut/stopper wires


Original Post
pjc30943 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

Are there any gotchas with using dyneema slings or cord connected to nut/stopper wires using a strop bend (not a girth hitch), compared to nylon? Assume a hypothetical bail scenario where there aren't enough biners left for whatever reason.

I'm asking this question due to the much smaller bend radius of a stopper wire, compared to a biner. I can see cord potentially being weaker than a sling due to its tubular structure as well, but haven't found any data / tests to back up any of these assumptions...

rock-fencer · · Columbia, SC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 265

basket hitch and not girth hitch to decrease radius but loads shouldnt be a true issue if just body weight. someone did some tests on this after a anchor broke a few years back. wound up more related to an edge if i remember than the radius of the girth hitch

Noah Yetter · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 105
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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