Going sideways, solo, on unprotected ground


Original Post
David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0

Hi,

after some tips on going sideways when soloing. Specifically the 2nd traverse on triple direct, but it could be a general point about longer traverses on ground with no protection. In the super topo and Erik's book this is stated as being 80ft. Although this includes the corner after the traverse. Erik's book has a couple of "P" symbols, which I guess could mean peg or pendulum, but are not used elsewhere and P is not in the key at the front of the book.

My issue is not with the leading, the reversing or getting the bags over, but with getting me back over. I'm assuming a lower out on the lead line is not possible without a big swing as 3 x 80 > 200ft so the rope will not be long enough. Maybe the sideways bit is a lot less than 80ft? I could rap/jug back over and pick up the haul line from the bag, then reverse once more, then rap and jug sideways yet again, but this seems a lot of effort.

Am I missing some clever trick (like rapping with the bags)?

Thanks.

Mydans · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

If my memory serves me correctly that pitch is short.  Your best bet would be to fix the haul line at the anchor you are leaving.  Then when you get to the next anchor fix the other end of the haul line and then rap to the bottom and then jug back to the previous anchor.  then you'll lower the bags out from that anchor and then clean the pitch and then haul. I'm sure this isn't the only way to do it though.  good luck

Firestone · · California · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 449

Once arriving at your upper anchor you could fix the haul line and rap back to the first anchor. Tie the bag to your haul line and put your ascenders above the bag on the haul line. Now you have a free lead rope to lower out with. Jug the haul line, haul the bags, ready for the next pitch.

You would weight the lead line for lowering out before transferring the haul bag to the haul line.

You have to clean on rappel if you do it this way. 

kevin deweese · · Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 200
Firestone wrote:

Once arriving at your upper anchor you could fix the haul line and rap back to the first anchor. Tie the bag to your haul line and put your ascenders above the bag on the haul line. Now you have a free lead rope to lower out with. Jug the haul line, haul the bags, ready for the next pitch.

You would weight the lead line for lowering out before transferring the haul bag to the haul line.

You have to clean on rappel if you do it this way. 

How would one clean a sideways pitch that has each piece more than an arms span apart WHILE RAPPELLING? 

Kevin Stricker · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 325

I'm pretty sure I remember lowering the pigs, then lowering out from the anchor.  I set the pigs up with a far side haul and did some funkyness cleaning the pitch with a combination of free climbing and jugging while hauling at the same time.  The climbing was not hard but the whole process took a while and definitely knocked a star off the route from a soloing perspective.  I was traveling light ( 2 nights on the wall) so the pig wasn't too heavy.  If you have a big piggies you would probably want to do a massive lower out on the haul line, jug and haul.  Just realize the chance of you hauling from camp 4 without going back down 2-3 times to clear the bags is pretty slim.  I think both the Nose and the Salathe make better solo routes ( if you have a passion for suffering).

Firestone · · California · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 449
kevin deweese wrote:

How would one clean a sideways pitch that has each piece more than an arms span apart WHILE RAPPELLING? 

If you are soloing you have the lead line attached so you could jug your lead line while rapping your haul line.

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0

Thanks for the ideas everyone

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply

Log In to Reply