gear-side biners on alpine draws


Original Post
Abdullah Mourad · · Elk Grove, CA · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0

Do you differentiate between your gear-side biners on your draws for trad gear? I put together a few alpine draws but then I realized that i may need to keep track of which side is gear side and which side is rope side.

If you do, what is a good technique for keeping track?

nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 204

you don't need to

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 45

I like to, mainly because "gear" occasionally means "bolt."  I just color coordinate.

Chris Dunn 510 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

I use orange and silver biners on my alpine draws. Silver for the rope,  and orange for either wires or bolts. If I don't need the orange, I just take it off if I'm clipping into the racking Biner for a cam.

Nick Fuller · · San Jose, CA · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 3
Nathanael wrote:

you don't need to

Agreed.

ollieon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 5

Another vote for no need. I do like to keep a couple light quickdraws on me, for the occasional sporty crux that has a bolt. I'll place one of those if I think I'll be doing some falling there. Otherwise, just occasionally  inspect your gear for burrs. I bet you'll have a hard time finding any.

csproul · · Davis, CA · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 25

On an alpine draw, not really any need. Must people aren't regularly/repeatedly taking falls on bolts on their alpine draws. Not enough to gouge up the biner anyway. That's what real QuickDraws are for.  If you happen to gouge up an alpine draw, just sand or down smooth. But mostly this is a non-concern.

Abdullah Mourad · · Elk Grove, CA · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0

Thank you, everyone! Glad I asked :)

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 136

Most people don't and you don't really "need" to. I do however, because I use two different biners on my alpine draws. For the rope end I will go with a CAMP Photon for easy clipping and then for the gear end I go with a Nano 22 to shave off some weight where durability and clipability aren't important. A really easy way to differentiate if you decide to go that route is to use different colors. I go with silver for gear side and various colors for the rope end because it matches with my regular quickdraws.

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 615
eli poss wrote:

Most people don't and you don't really "need" to. I do however, because I use two different biners on my alpine draws. For the rope end I will go with a CAMP Photon for easy clipping and then for the gear end I go with a Nano 22 to shave off some weight where durability and clipability aren't important. A really easy way to differentiate if you decide to go that route is to use different colors. I go with silver for gear side and various colors for the rope end because it matches with my regular quickdraws.

Agreed, I use this same set up.  Nano 22/Photon with a skinny dyneema sling in the middle.

Aaron Liebling · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 420
Nick Sweeney wrote:

Agreed, I use this same set up.  Nano 22/Photon with a skinny dyneema sling in the middle.

Thirded. It's a great setup.

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 615

Eli and Aaron, do you guys want to be friends?

ViperScale · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 165

If you plan to use them on bolts than yes. I only use mine on gear loops and none of those are metal like bolts so there is no real risk of damage to the biners and I personally don't worry about it like normal draws which are normally put on metal bolts.

Ultimately sure it is probably better to have 2 different biner types to make sure you never use one that has damage from hanging on metal but rarely is it an issue on alpine draws.

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 136
Nick Sweeney wrote:

Eli and Aaron, do you guys want to be friends?

Bro, this is the internet. There are no friends, only pissing contests. Get with the picture bro, this isn't 2010 anymore. 

Micah Klesick · · Vancouver, WA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 3,834
Abdullah Mourad wrote:

Do you differentiate between your gear-side biners on your draws for trad gear? I put together a few alpine draws but then I realized that i may need to keep track of which side is gear side and which side is rope side.

If you do, what is a good technique for keeping track?

I do, I use red for rope side. And I'm anal about it. But I use my alpines as extensions on sport routes, or on bolts on multi pitch and I have no issues whipping on them so my bolt side biners are almost all pretty dinged. And if anyone doubts that tbe dings on biners can damage a rope, watch the BD test. It's pretty eye opening. 

IMO there isn't really a reason not to put different biners on the rope end. It's not like it costs more and it could potentially save your rope.

Tommy Barker · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 75

I only put one liner on them.  Theres already a racking miner on your cam.  Not really a need to carry the extra weight.  Toss two or three wire gates on your harness in case you find a bolt, pin, or place a nut and adjust the number of non-lockers as needed.

Micah Klesick · · Vancouver, WA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 3,834
Tommy Barker wrote:

I only put one liner on them.  Theres already a racking miner on your cam.  Not really a need to carry the extra weight.  Toss two or three wire gates on your harness in case you find a bolt, pin, or place a nut and adjust the number of non-lockers as needed.

You clip a lot less nuts and bolts than I do then. I typically end up placing as many nuts as cams...

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 25

If travelling World wide it makes sense to get half a dozen of Kong Helium binners (most likely discontinued but possible to find) - they fit old handmade hangers where nothing else (OK, almost nothing, there are some titanium binners with the same thin profile) works.

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 282

Not really related but have you Nano fans been having trouble with sticky gates?

csproul · · Davis, CA · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 25

If you are regularly putting burrs/gouges on your alpine draw biners or using quickdraws on your gear,  keeping the two sides separate may not be enough. Even if you are not clipping the rope with the roughed up biner, that end may end up clipped to a cam sling. You still may want to consider keeping the biners smooth or keeping dedicated draws to clip bolts that you are likely to fall on. But mostly a non-issue IMO, but I probably fall less than most.

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 136
csproul wrote:

If you are regularly putting burrs/gouges on your alpine draw biners or using quickdraws on your gear,  keeping the two sides separate may not be enough. Even if you are not clipping the rope with the roughed up biner, that end may end up clipped to a cam sling. You still may want to consider keeping the biners smooth or keeping dedicated draws to clip bolts that you are likely to fall on. But mostly a non-issue IMO, but I probably fall less than most.

Those burrs won't really do much to a cam sling because there is no movement. In the case of the rope, it is moving through the biner and that movement cuts sheath yarns. Perhaps under really high load the biner might start to abrade the cam sling but I doubt it will really do anything noticeable. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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