5.10 Gambit lace, anasazi guide, or???


Original Post
Wes C · · Cleveland, oh · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 0

Looking to pickup a comfy shoe that still performs well.  The reviews on these seem good, price seems reasonable.  Which would you prefer?  Also any suggestions on sizing?  Unfortunately the only local store here doesn't carry much selection of climbing shoes so I can't go try them on first.  I currently wear la sportiva nagos size 42 for reference.  I'm a size 10 U.S in street shoes.  Thanks.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 45

How did you choose those shoes?  What type of climbing do you want to do?  Don't know much about the Gambit, but the Anasazi line is classic.  Five Ten tends to run truer to size than La Sportiva, so I would start with your street shoe size if you're going for a comfy fit.  Out of curiosity, why do you want to switch from your Nagos?  What do you not like about them?

Wes C · · Cleveland, oh · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 0
Ted Pinson wrote:

How did you choose those shoes?  What type of climbing do you want to do?  Don't know much about the Gambit, but the Anasazi line is classic.  Five Ten tends to run truer to size than La Sportiva, so I would start with your street shoe size if you're going for a comfy fit.  Out of curiosity, why do you want to switch from your Nagos?  What do you not like about them?

Honestly, primarily from reviews.  I climb mostly in the gym, a mix of bouldering and toproping.  Now that summer is here we will be spending some time outside, with a few trips planned.  Looking for new shoes as mine are just worn, been climbing in them for about a year so their beat.  Looking for something a little nicer/comfier.  For the longest time the nago's would rip the skin only on my right ankle, but once they broke in that stopped.

sherb · · Loveland, Ohio & Wheat Ridg... · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 0

Never had any of those shoes, but I'll go on hearsay. I heard Nagos are floppy, and although it appears Anasazi guides are a step below the Verdes, Pinks, Blancos, VCS (velcro), prolly better than Nagos. It seems they made the gambit to be more neutral (anasazi is labeled moderate), so again I'd go with the Anasazi guide. 

I love my Anasazi verdes. Much of, but not everything 5.10 makes is gold but none are coals either. My not so favorites are the five ten fox which almost curves up with super thin material, and my striped blackwing feels like a paper toe. 

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0

I can't say I've heard good things about the anasazi guide, I recommend the tc pro as would many others.

Brandon.Phillips · · Alabama · Joined May 2011 · Points: 0

Anasazi guide runs significantly smaller than other 5.10 shoes, in my experience.  I ordered a pair in the same size as my anasazi VCS, and couldn't get my foot into the shoe at all.  They seemed like good shoes though, but ultimately I went with TC Pros. +1 for TC pros, though they  do have a longer break in period.  5.10 mocs are good as well, and break in quick.

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 0

DON'T BUY TC PROS!!!

The people who mentioned them didn't even read your post. They are a very well built, supportive, and stiff lace up shoe. They perform extremely well on tiny edges on vertical routes, are relatively comfortable, and are to be worn for long periods. You're bouldering and toproping at the gym. Those routes don't tend to have vertical edges so much as rounded bumps. A more sensitive shoe that you can pop on and pop off easily is a lot more suited for you. What we have here is people telling you their favorite shoe, not telling you the best shoe for the job.

For an actual answer, I don't think you should buy any of the shoes you mentioned. This would be a horizontal move, same thing as getting out of a crappy apartment and renting a different equally crappy apartment. They won't offer anything that your Nago's can't already do. Look into a few models of medium stiffness velcro shoes that aren't downturned, or if they are, not downturned much. This will give you a shoe that will perform pretty well everywhere. They will not necessarily be the absolute greatest at a single discipline but you'll see big improvement over the snowboots you mentioned.

Models to look into, Anasazi VCS, Scarpa Vapor V, La Sportiva Velcro Miura. Tenaya has 3 models that seem very suited to my suggestion Tanta, Ra, and Aqua, so maybe someone with more experience in that brand can clarify that for you.

You live in Cleveland, you're going to climb at the Red and the New. Any of the shoes I mentioned will perform very well there. They'll be great in the gym too. Consider keeping your Nago's at the gym though, to keep the wear off your nice new shoes.

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion wrote:

DON'T BUY TC PROS!!!

The people who mentioned them didn't even read your post. They are a very well built, supportive, and stiff lace up shoe. They perform extremely well on tiny edges on vertical routes, are relatively comfortable, and are to be worn for long periods. You're bouldering and toproping at the gym. Those routes don't tend to have vertical edges so much as rounded bumps. A more sensitive shoe that you can pop on and pop off easily is a lot more suited for you. What we have here is people telling you their favorite shoe, not telling you the best shoe for the job.

For an actual answer, I don't think you should buy any of the shoes you mentioned. This would be a horizontal move, same thing as getting out of a crappy apartment and renting a different equally crappy apartment. They won't offer anything that your Nago's can't already do. Look into a few models of medium stiffness velcro shoes that aren't downturned, or if they are, not downturned much. This will give you a shoe that will perform pretty well everywhere. They will not necessarily be the absolute greatest at a single discipline but you'll see big improvement over the snowboots you mentioned.

Models to look into, Anasazi VCS, Scarpa Vapor V, La Sportiva Velcro Miura. Tenaya has 3 models that seem very suited to my suggestion Tanta, Ra, and Aqua, so maybe someone with more experience in that brand can clarify that for you.

You live in Cleveland, you're going to climb at the Red and the New. Any of the shoes I mentioned will perform very well there. They'll be great in the gym too. Consider keeping your Nago's at the gym though, to keep the wear off your nice new shoes.

Are u mad m8? "Looking to pickup a comfy shoe that still performs well." that's all he said, nothing about gym climbing.

The anasazi VCS is a shoe for edging on vertical to slightly overhanging terrain, the Scarpa is similar if not the same same thing and the Miura VS vs is with out a doubt the best slab to 20degree overhanging edging shoe i have ever owned so completely wrong for rounded foot jibs.

IMO the best shoe for gym climbing for the outdoor climber is la sportivas no edge shoes mainly because they just go on forever and ever in the gym and can be bought outside for sport climbing. The best pure gym shoe is something with an edge, in which case you just need something very downturned, soft and with a good heel ,comfort doesn't even come into it.

Since apparently you wear the nago unless they are worn through or fit horrendously, don't bother with getting a new shoe focus on getting stronger and improving your technique and footwork.

NorCalNomad · · San Francisco · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 55
that guy named seb wrote:

Are u mad m8? "Looking to pickup a comfy shoe that still performs well." that's all he said, nothing about gym climbing.

Chill out king of MP and try to read the thread closer. 


"I climb mostly in the gym, a mix of bouldering and toproping"

Guide = super stiff

Gambit = softer but still stiffer than a Nago

A super stiff shoe in the gym usually isn't as much of an advantage as is it outside. It sounds like you are still in your beginner to intermediate stages so I'd focus on a shoe that has a good fit for your foot and maybe has a bit more performance. Also a touch softer shoe inside will let you feel the hold a bit more so it's easier to work on good footwork when you have some tactile feedback at your toes. So Tenaya RA's (a bit stiff still), Anasazi VCS's, Muira (same last but stiffer for the velcro), Katana (lace or velcro..although they are two different lasts) 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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