I want to learn trad climbing


Original Post
jake vargas · · newcastle · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 10

Hey my name is Jake, I'm a sac local and fairly new to climbing, I've been living up in humboldt where there is not much trad and I'm hoping to find someone to teach me over summer in the tahoe area primarily!

Eric L · · Roseville, CA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 105

Jake,  I'm in the same boat as you and am interested in joining you in the learning process (I don't have a mentor either).  You may be able to find a mentor if you join the adopt a crag event at lovers leap on June 3.

Ian Machen · · Reno, NV · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 35

Hey guys if you ever make it around Reno, I'm more than happy to help start you on your journey.

jake vargas · · newcastle · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 10

Thank you guys both for your help!

Abdullah Mourad · · Elk Grove, CA · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0

Same boat and I'm in Sac. Been slowly gathering a starter rack.. Do you have more info on the adopt a crag even at the leap? I'd love to go.

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 420
jake vargas wrote:

Hey my name is Jake, I'm a sac local and fairly new to climbing, I've been living up in humboldt where there is not much trad and I'm hoping to find someone to teach me over summer in the tahoe area primarily!

BITD I was taken out by a mentor like many others and might consider returning the favor as I have always enjoyed teaching.

Do you have your own rack and rope Jake?

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 420

If between the 3 of you guys you can get a decent rack together we can do a trip to Lovers Leap sometime soon. Ideal for newbies. I'm available, I will leave it to you 3 to work out rack and times.

I'd post a resume but it would seem like ridiculous overkill (30+ years off and on in Yose). Just wanna give back like others did for me.

Basic stuff needed:

Set of BD Stoppers 5-12.

Cams from 3/4" to 4" one each will get us up Lovers classics. The more the merrier. Assume y'all have draws and some slings. Tied slings are handy for reasons we will go over.

Personal Gear:

ATC plus locker. Nut Cleaning Tool. Plus harness and shoes of course. Some cloth tape for hands can be useful.

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 420
Michael P wrote:

plus helmet too?

I'm old school so not a helmet guy on regular rock climbs.

Alpine enviro with real rock fall hazard, absolutely. Lovers does have some looseness, but it is not a major concern.

Falling stuff is a problem everywhere to a degree, but a helmet simply not a requirement there imo. This is a little bit of a generational issue that assumes safe climbing is not gear dependent, but experience and skill oriented. Awareness and not standing under gumbies is more important etc.

Anyone that posted is of course welcome to use them. 

Billy Danger · · Asheville, NC · Joined Mar 2005 · Points: 233

Castle Crag? I would think that would be a good spot to learn trad in your area. 

Nate Doyle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 10

I'd be interested in the adopt a crag event as well. I don't see it on the site, however, and am wondering if this is the correct one? http://www.norcalcrags.org/events/

Abdullah Mourad · · Elk Grove, CA · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0

@Tut, no resume needed. I've seen you posting here plenty. I really appreciate the offer and I'm so down.

Did you mean 1 rack of all that between the 3 of us or each?

In terms of pro what I have bene able to wrangle so far:

  • C4 .4-.75, 3. (I'm working on finding 1 and 2)
  • Stoppers 4-13
  • WC Hexes 3-9 (you said you're old school so I assume you'd be ok with this haha)
  • Red and pink tricams

I do have slings and some webbing along w/the personal items you mentioned.

@Jake, @Eric you guys down to make this happen?

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 420
Abdullah Mourad wrote:

@Tut, no resume needed. I've seen you posting here plenty. I really appreciate the offer and I'm so down.

Did you mean 1 rack of all that between the 3 of us or each?

In terms of pro what I have bene able to wrangle so far:

  • C4 .4-.75, 3. (I'm working on finding 1 and 2)
  • Stoppers 4-13
  • WC Hexes 3-9 (you said you're old school so I assume you'd be ok with this haha)
  • Red and pink tricams

I do have slings and some webbing along w/the personal items you mentioned.

@Jake, @Eric you guys down to make this happen?

All we need is one set of cams, like 6-8 plus stoppers (though doubles in 1"-3" cams would be welcome) to get up routes like Surrealistic Pillar, Bear's Reach etc. The focus would be on placing safe anchors, lead protection etc instead of remotely pushing grades. There are just nuances that you can't communicate easily in a written form without writing novels with complete picture examples etc. A day on the stone with some cracks is what is needed.

There is plenty of written stuff out there ad nauseum (SERENE etc) but there is no substitute for experience on the rock.

Ideally we could go up there on a weekday, rather than weekend, to take the sting out of the crowds.

Nate Doyle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 10

According to California Climber | Issue 20 | Spring '17  there is, in fact, a CRAGS Adopt-a-Crag event on June 3rd:

I'm not seeing anything on the Event Calendar page for Lover's Leap in June over at Access Fund, however (or anything over at CRAGS website, as mentioned earlier)

...Okay, found it, it's on their Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/sacramentocrags/

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 310

Tut... props to you for passing along the secret handshake. I think all of US of a certin age learned hands on from some old timer.... Good explanation for the No-helmet too. 

You guys are lucky, be sure to carry ALL of the gear.



 

Eric L · · Roseville, CA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 105

Thanks Tut!  I have gear: full set of C4s, basic set Camp nuts,  draws, slings, 70 and 60m ropes, etc.  my biggest problem is time (job and kids.). At the moment, I'm free on June 4 (maybe 3rd).  I know Crags is doing a crag service at the leap on June 3 - talked to them on Saturday at the deer creek park cleanup.

Edit:  with enough notice,  I can book a day off work, depending on my calendar.  (I might be closer to your age). Let's make this trip work. 

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 420

Ok, Eric sounds solid. Work out a date with Abdullah and Jake and we'll take it from there. Between his and your cams etc we have plenty.

One ground rule: I promise it will be fun, but people have to listen. I'm pretty confident that once we get to know each other it will all go smoothly. :)

jake vargas · · newcastle · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 10

This all seems really solid, I personally have no trad gear but it seems like all of your guy's gear is plenty if you don't mind me mooching. Is it cool if I bring another friend? just in case you folks are weirdos ;) also I should be free from June 6- June 16 and June 23- thru august 

dylan grabowski · · Oakland · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 55

This is a great thread! After a couple of years, I still learn from my partners who almost always have more experience than me. Hope you all have a good time.

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 420
Guy Keesee wrote:

Tut... props to you for passing along the secret handshake. I think all of US of a certin age learned hands on from some old timer.... Good explanation for the No-helmet too. 

You guys are lucky, be sure to carry ALL of the gear.



 

Thanks for that, Guy. 

I got taken out by a High School teacher when I was like 14....so lucky back in the 70's....gotta pay that debt somehow. :)

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 420
jake vargas wrote:

This all seems really solid, I personally have no trad gear but it seems like all of your guy's gear is plenty if you don't mind me mooching. Is it cool if I bring another friend? just in case you folks are weirdos ;) also I should be free from June 6- June 16 and June 23- thru august 

We'll start off doing stuff basically right on the ground building anchors and such so I don't see a problem there....BUT, if we do a route a party of 4 is more than enough (and kinda why I would like to do it mid-week if we can. Lovers is real old school trad with gear anchors required on most routes (perfect to learn) but it makes it tricky cause you can't just do something and go right back to the ground. You have to finish the 3 pitches and walk around, etc.

We'll just have to see what comes together etc. Work with the others to get a date.

jake vargas · · newcastle · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 10

Sounds good. Sounds like all that's left is finding a solid date 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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