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Chimney routes in Red Rocks?

Original Post
EWilliams · · Truckee, CA · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 40

I'm heading to Red Rocks next week and Epinephrine is on the list. Any suggestions for other routes with chimney sections that I can do in the days prior to getting on Epinephrine? 

Thanks in advance, 


Ryan Hill · · Oakland, CA · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 30

Black Widow Hollow on Mescalito is one of my favorites.  Black Dagger on the Brownstone Wall is also quite good.  Both good Joe Herbst routes.

Stagg54 Taggart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 10

Buelah's book has a short chimney section.  The Handren book even recommends it as a warm-up for Epinephrine.  

Brandt Allen · · Joshua Tree, Cal · Joined Jan 2004 · Points: 215

Test Tube, up near Crimson Chrysalis, looks pretty good.

Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240

JnJ established a route just to the west of Epi that has a shorter chimney section if that is what you are asking. It will mimic the exact same quality rock and the chimney section is definitely no more difficult.  A few of the pitches above the chimney are stouter though, not wide, just more technical than anything on Epi. Named Twixt Cradle and Stone. Enjoy your trip.

Adrienne DiRosario · · Troy, NY · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 0

Sport Chimney at Sunny and Steep is a fun warm up. 

skeeered · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

Plumbers Crack

dave custer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 855

Beulah's Book; Saddle Up & the other gashes on JackRabbit buttress; Plato's Grotto, Casper the Friendly Offwidth, A Karmic History & The Lake Mead Exotic Plant Control Crew in/near Stick Gulley all provide a taste of the chimneying life style, though none is quite like Epinephrine. 

Prithipal Khalsa · · San Diego · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0

To add on to Dow's suggestion. Sick climb and I would do it again but you have to do 4 pitches of bummer climbing before the really cool chimney pitch. That being said the chimney gradually gets smaller and smaller over 2 pitched until it is a finger crack and then gone. Super cool climb.

Erroneous Publicus · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 5

Black Widow Hollow is the only "4 star route" I've ever climbed at RR that had an overgrown trail on the approach.  Fifth degree sandbag!

EWilliams · · Truckee, CA · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 40

Awesome! Thanks for the route suggestions. Looks like I've got my work cut out for me. 


Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 873

This isn't a chimney route, but it's helpful to climb Frogland prior to Epi because you can scout the end of the Epi descent. For most people, Epi is a long day, and having a good idea of the descent can help you avoid one of the bivy sites built on top of the mountain. 

Suz Zak · · New Haven, CT · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 50

Tunnel Vision !

I did Epinephrine a couple weeks ago. Also did both side of Plumber's Crack. I led all the chimney pitches of Epinephrine and I'm happy I didn't do Plumber's Crack first as I don't think I would have felt as confident. The chimneys on Epi are size variable, so you can go in as deep as you like to feel comfortable based on your size.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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