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Scarpa vapor lace fit compared to TC pro?


Original Post
mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

Both shoe to shoe euro size and fit in terms of toe box and heel widths?

I'm 42.5 TC pro, wondering what size vapor lace to consider

greggrylls · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 28

I wear a roomie 42.5 all day fit in TC pros.   I wear a 42 in vapor lace.  They are a perfect fit for me and make the suction noise when I put them on.  I can keep them on for a whole gym session but wouldn't want them on for any longer.  Sometimes I take them off at the gym.    I have a wide forefoot and average heel.   Scarpas fit me extremely well without pinching the front of my foot.   Hope that helps.  

-Greg

Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 483

40.5 edging performance tc pro (ever so slightly knuckled big toe).

41 vapor v performance fit, lace is exactly the same last.

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

Thanks, Very interesting. Seems a very different comparison comparing TC pro to Vapor vs comparing to Scarpa Techno X where people are commonly having to size up 1 or 2 whole sizes. Seems Scarpa's climbing shoe sizing is all over the place between different models.

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125

I wear 38.5 TC pro: was a tighter edging shoe, now a comfy crack shoe. I have a pair of 40 bumble bee colored Vapor Lace that I can't climb cracks well in yet. It's about the same length as my 39 Katana Lace. So, 1 euro size difference between Sportiva & Scarpa is about right. There are some variations between models within each brand.

Compared to the TC, the Vapor lace toe box is narrower and has more asymmetry and a bit more downturn (similar to Katana Lace). The heel was a bit more snug as well but it's relatively soft so it can probably accommodate the same volume. 

Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 483
mountainhick wrote:

Thanks, Very interesting. Seems a very different comparison comparing TC pro to Vapor vs comparing to Scarpa Techno X where people are commonly having to size up 1 or 2 whole sizes. Seems Scarpa's climbing shoe sizing is all over the place between different models.

Scarpa is actually pretty consistent EXCEPT in the techno X (pos shoe IMO). 41 is performance fit for vapor V, instinct velcro, or booster S. I had technos in a 41.5 and they stayed in a knuckled big toe fit for a flat last after 30-40 pitches.

Eddie Ferrer · · Portland, OR · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 25

Have you checked out SizeSquirrel? It literally solves this problem. 

Check it out: sizesquirrel.com

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120
Eddie Ferrer wrote:

Have you checked out SizeSquirrel? It literally solves this problem. 

Check it out: http://www.sizesquirrel.com

Thanks for the suggestion, Yes I have, but the Vapor lace is not even available as a result, and the results for the vapor V are entirely unclear:

For TC pro 42.5 there is a single lonely result

For TC pro in adjacent sizes 42 and 43, there are three more results which suggest a range of same size to size up 1 1/2 sizes.

4 points of data is not statistically consistent nor of useful sample size for anything definitive. It absolutely does not "literally solve the problem".

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

the stats including responses here and size squirrel for 42, 42.5 and 43 TC pros:

size down by 1/2 size: 1

fit same size: 1

size up 1/2 size: 1

size up 1 full size: 3

size up 1 1/2 sizes: 1

Hardly conclusive with only 7 points of data, but at least there's a trend

John The Wolf · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 50

I am a 41 in my scarpa vapor lace, pretty tight fit, they kill my feet on longer slabby routes and I get a suction noise with them. 41 in TC pros seemed more comfortable, less knuckled. 

I'd say for the same size, the vapor lace is a bit tighter than the TC Pros. I second the Techno X thing. The 41 was unbearable in these.

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

Got the best data today on my own feet. I had the opportunity to try them on. I wear 42.5 TC pro, the vapor lace in 43 is a bit too snug, but I think will be a good performance fit once broken in. The 43.5 would be comfy after break in, perhaps becoming a little sloppy for me. The forefoot is a little too wide in the 43.5 as well. I also tried Tenaya Tatanka 42.5... narrower in the forefoot and side edge a tiny bit more solid feeling, but didn't feel like I could pull with the toe quite as much. Both of these have less downturn than any other downturned shoe I've tried, and seems I can tolerate it. Going to ruminate a little before deciding...

Aaron Guillotte · · Boston · Joined May 2016 · Points: 15
reboot wrote:

I wear 38.5 TC pro: was a tighter edging shoe, now a comfy crack shoe. I have a pair of 40 bumble bee colored Vapor Lace that I can't climb cracks well in yet. It's about the same length as my 39 Katana Lace. So, 1 euro size difference between Sportiva & Scarpa is about right. There are some variations between models within each brand.

Compared to the TC, the Vapor lace toe box is narrower and has more asymmetry and a bit more downturn (similar to Katana Lace). The heel was a bit more snug as well but it's relatively soft so it can probably accommodate the same volume. 

I recently ordered a couple sizes in the vapor 40.5 and 41 I think (though it might have been 40 and 40.5), and I found them incredibly tight and uncomfortable. I ended up going back to La Sportiva and getting the TC Pro's in a 39.5, which is about a tight a fit as I can stand. 

Reason I make this post at all, is that my understanding was that Scarpa, in general, has a wider toe box the La Sportiva, as folks generally comment that LS is a better fit for narrow feet. It's a purely anecdotal analysis, but I just didn't find that to be the case with the Vapor's  (YMMV), which seems to be a similar experience, echoed by Reboot. Definitely worth giving both a fitting, but I felt like I would have had to size the Vapor's potentially a size and a half larger than the TC's, and as we all know, you've got to try them on your own feet to be sure. 

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

My take now: 

The scarpas just run smaller in length. Based on my foot, a 43 1/4 Vapor lace would be equal to 42.5 TC pro in length.

In width, my previous/older TC pros (5 years or more ago) were perfect width for me. Second pair also very good. My third pair came wider in the toe box (too wide) which is 1/2 the reason I am seeking another shoe. The other 1/2 reason is if I can tolerate a sight downturn it will be helpful for some pulling on more than vertical terrain. 

The Vapor laces I tried today, 43 was the tiniest bit wider than my older TC pro fit, not as wide as the newer ones. The 43.5 was a little baggy in the toe box.I don't know if there are variations pair to pair in the vapors that would make a difference.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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