One week - New or Red (stay dry)


Original Post
TaylorP · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

Hi all, I have a week to climb with my little brother and was trying to figure out if we should hit the New or the Red. The issue is the crazy amount of rain that's coming down right now. I know the Red has some places that can stay dry, but what about the New? Amy luck there next week with all this rain? Thanks!

Brian Goldman · · Atlanta, Ga · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 10

A lot of the crags at the Upper Meadow at the New stay very dry! I haven't many issues with seepage there.

BrianWS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 790

Depends on how hard you climb. Most of the "permadry" crags at the new are not moderate. 

Rico Suave buttress is really the only dryish crag with moderates. There's a good selection on 5.10 and 11- routes that stay dry. Maybe enough for a days worth of climbing if you bring a rack.

First buttress at the meadow has an 11a that stays dry and fantastic 12s and 13s that do as well. Permadraws on the hard stuff make it a bit friendlier.

The collesium at summersville stays dry but is prone to seepage. Cost of entry there is 12+, but permadraws make it a bit more accessible to weaker climbers.

White wall at Kaymoore has a series of mid 12s that stay relatively dry.

The hole at Kaymoore also technically stays dry but is prone to becoming hyper manky in humid conditions. I've seen the walls here turn green from algae, whereas it's typically a solid grey. Hyper classic roof climbs live here, be a solid mid 12 climber at least to have any fun. 

Lastly, the cirque at endless is so steep that it's pretty much rain proof. Mostly hard 12s and up to 14s live here. Like other amphitheater type crags, the stone is very prone to sweating and becoming unclimbable in bad humidity.

Ben Murphy · · Denver, CO · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 20

Plenty of moderates that stay dry at the Red; the biggest problem is that after getting pounded by rain, some of the dry crags end up seeping.

Eric Carlos · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 40

It is incorrect on most of the cases where people reference the rock "seeping".  There are cases, around cracks, etc, where there is actual seepage, but what most people refer to as "seeping" is condensation.  The rock cools at night, and then the next morning, the air warms faster than the rock, so it creates the same affect as taking a cold beverage out of the refrigerator.   Water isn't seeping out of the rock, it is condensing on it due to the rock being below the due point in more humid air.  

With that in mind, if you go somewhere where you can climb on an east facing crag in the afternoon shade, you have the best chance of dry rock that has been warmed above the due point by the morning sun.

TaylorP · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

Thanks for the responses! Not sure we can handle 12s at the New. We are heading down Sunday, so I guess we will have to skip the New if it rains there all weekend

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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