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The Best Worst Classics

evan h · · Longmont, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 360
JCM wrote:

...Still fun, but no national-level classic. The applies the Eldo generally, actually.

Agreed. I think Eldo has some great climbs, but I'd rather travel to many other places for multi-pitch (or single pitch) trad.

Andy Novak · · Bailey, CO · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 370
Doug Lintz wrote:

Cat in the Hat at Red Rock.  Crowded and only a couple interesting moves with a whole lotta meh in between.  Why do people swarm to this route?

I gotta disagree here. For 'only' being 5.6, those last couple pitches are pretty cool..  

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

I thought the Bastille was tons of fun.  The first pitch was pretty classic with that step across...although really, I think people just went up too high and made it harder (and spookier) than it needed to be.  But the rest of the climb is fairly sustained for the grade and solid rock until the top.

BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 340
Doug Lintz wrote:

Cat in the Hat at Red Rock.  Crowded and only a couple interesting moves with a whole lotta meh in between.  Why do people swarm to this route?

Next time link cookie monster into the top pitches of CitH...waaay better! 

Jason Kim · · Encinitas, CA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 255
evan h wrote:

Agreed. I think Eldo has some great climbs, but I'd rather travel to many other places for multi-pitch (or single pitch) trad.

I was going to say Rewritten.  Only been to Eldo once, in fairness.

Steven Sheets · · Livermore, CA · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 30
caughtinside wrote:

I thought the climbing on Kor Ingalls was not that great, and also Traveller Buttress at Lover's Leap. I think those are both in the 50 classics?  Way better climbing nearby at both areas.  

Ya, I feel like Kor-Ingalls is a two star route up a 5 star formation. I like Traveller's Buttress but agree there are better climbs at the Leap.

Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,016
Sheets wrote:

Ya, I feel like Kor-Ingalls is a two star route up a 5 star formation. I like Traveller's Buttress but agree there are better climbs at the Leap.

Kor Ingalls wasn't really a fun route but I'm glad I did it. I thought north chimney was genuinely fun. 

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520
Hale wrote:

Here is my list of contenders for the best worst classic in the U.S.:

- Raven, Shelf Road, CO: Not good. 

Awwww, Raven is a great climb. But it's a poor example of a 5.9 for a 5.9 leader. It has some moves up high you have to commit to. I never considered it a classic, however. It's just decent. 

tschiele · · Vermont · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 247

Agreed on Hobbit Hole. Iron Man Traverse and Hero Roof are also way over hyped in Bishop.

CCas · · Bend, OR · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 145
Jake wander wrote:

Durrance on Devils Tower

like you said its not a bad climb, but if it wasnt for history, there would be so many others on the tower put ahead of it

+1 first thing that came to mind and first response lol

CCas · · Bend, OR · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 145
JCM wrote:

The Naked Edge. Not that it's a bad route. It's actually pretty decent. But the hype is way out of control. It is frequently listed as one of the top 5 multipitch routes. No way. It doesn't even come close in quality to many routes in The Needles, Squamish, the Cascades, Yosemite, Castle Valley, Red Rocks, etc... Even the east coast has some multipitches better than the Edge.

Issues with the Edge are short pitches, ok rock, and a somewhat wandering route. Still fun, but no national-level classic. The applies the Eldo generally, actually.

Hahah "even the east coast" 

Eric Carlos · · Soddy Daisy, TN · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 121

Kor-Ingalls, Fuzzy Undercling at the Red, Edge of Time in Estes Park.  

Also, honorable mention - Chainsaw Massacre at The Red, same move over and over again.  

Eric Carlos · · Soddy Daisy, TN · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 121
tschiele wrote:

Agreed on Hobbit Hole. Iron Man Traverse and Hero Roof are also way over hyped in Bishop.

I personally loved Iron Man Traverse, but then again I thought the Buttermilks in general were 5 star setting, 3 star movement on 2 star rock.

Lynn Evenson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 60

Owen-Spalding on the Grand Teton. It's not even all that great as a descent route.

Andy Novak · · Bailey, CO · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 370
Lynn Evenson wrote:

Owen-Spalding on the Grand Teton. It's not even all that great as a descent route.

Lol. Well said. 

Dark Helmet · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 995

levitation 29

Christian Black · · Reno, NV · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 365

Urban Assault, Barton Creek Greenbelt, Austin TX

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
John Wilder wrote:

Red Rock: Crimson, Geronimo. Crimson I get, it's a big pillar that goes at a moderate grade, even if the climbing is ho hum. Geronimo totally baffles me, it's a crap climb up mediocre rock with a horrible descent. I have no idea why it's classic. 

Eldorado: basically everything there. I wasn't impressed with the climbing there other than the proximity. It's a great local crag, but certainly not worth traveling for, imho. 

Squamish: Diedre. I don't understand the hype on that route, especially with all the great climbs around it. Good, but definitely not great. 

Hua, I thought Crimpson was pretty rad and far better than most of the other moderates in Red Rocks. Your typical Red Rocks moderate is mostly a bunch of slab romping on really soft rock and little exposure--pretty boring and easy really. Crimpson is a rare change of scenery with the vertical climbing and high(ish) exposure at a moderate grade.

I'd throw Solarslab, Birdland and Cat in the Hat into the list. Like most other Red Rocks moderates, it's just a bunch of slab humping all day.

BJB · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 195
cmqr9001 Black wrote:

Urban Assault, Barton Creek Greenbelt, Austin TX

For the last day, I've tried to go about my work, raise my kid, and be a good husband, but I cannot fully focus on those responsibilities without saying this - you are wrong.  Urban Assault is a great and distinct multi pitch climb in an area that has no other "adventure" climbing within a two hour drive.  

It has a cave belay!  A cool traverse out of the cave belay!  The steepest easy 5.10 climbing you will do anywhere! An awesome giant belay ledge! Pitch 3 can be done as stout free climbing or a thought provoking leaning bolt ladder!  It has a one pitch rappel over a river!    

I'm not saying that I would drive past Yosemite Valley, Red Rocks, or Portrero Chico to get to Urban Assault, but Urban Assault is a distinct, special and classic climb in the state of Texas.

I'll stand by and let people defame the Durrance, but I'll stand up for Urban Assault.   

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520
Eric Carlos wrote:

 Edge of Time in Estes Park.  

That route is only classic for the great photo composition. I mean, it's fun to climb and all but not that interesting. 

cmqr9001 Black wrote:

Urban Assault, Barton Creek Greenbelt, Austin TX

They only rebolted it after I left Austin, so I haven't even climbed it. Do people actually state that it's a classic? It looks like an adventure in choss for sure. :-D But come on, any new routes in the Greenbelt are most welcome. You guys should go fix up that Beehive Wall or whatever it's called. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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