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Another Next Shoe question

Original Post
Squeak · · Perth West OZ · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 23

I did do a search but didn't really find what i wanted to know.

I've been climbing indoors for a few years and outdoors for about a year. My climbing has improved and I'm progressing onto more overhung and roof type climbing. It's been suggested that it might be time to get a more aggressive pair of shoes.

I started with Evolv Defys (now my DWS shoes) and moved to Anasazi VCS I have been wearing them for a few years now, they are great for the slabby crimpy stuff I have been climbing.

My question is what are the "intermediate" down turn shoes. 

Looking at the Katana lace online they look almost flat, but Murias (previous post have suggested that they collapse after a short while)  look WAY more aggressive. and Im not familiar with most other brands.

Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 20

Five Ten Hiangle are good downturned shoes. I also like the Evolv Shaman. The Ferrari of the downturned shoe is the La Sportiva Solution. I can't wear them because the sole isn't stiff enough for my chronic toe injury, but it's a really great downturned shoe. If you want a stiffer sole and a more moderate downturn, then the Five Ten Quantum is a great choice. 

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
Ryan Hamilton wrote:

The Ferrari of the downturned shoe is the La Sportiva Solution. 

That's so obviously the La Sportiva Testarossa. Is that even a serious statement? 

The Lamborghini of climbing shoe is, wait for it, the La Sportiva Miura.


John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,530

I'd call the Solution the most common downturned shoe I see on most people's feet. Followed by the Muira VS and then other shoes by other brands. 

Depending on your foot, you should look into a mild downturned shoe like the Muira VS, Vapor V, Shaman, Acro, etc. 

Try a bunch on, pick the one that doesn't hurt your feet with sharp pains. Also, if you get an almost good fit but a bit of pain, try a half size down. Downturned shoes often feel worse when they're too big... 

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

So I would question: what are you trying to accomplish?  What kind of climbing do you like to do?  Do you really *need* downturned shoes?

There's very little that you can't do with a worn in pair of Anasazis.

mkclimb · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 408

There are a ton of shoes out there that would fit the description of what you are looking for. Go try a bunch of downturned shoes on, and don't worry if they are marketed as "intermediate" or "high performance" shoes - the aggressive shoe that fits you best is what will most help your climbing. Personally, I think anything with a significant toe-hook patch is particularly useful for very steep climbing. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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