Trad climbing on knots(Saxon/Czech)


Original Post
Firestone · · California · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 449

I'm looking for good articles/photos about fusselschlinge (lint slings or sticky slings) for slinging shallow horns. Where can I buy lint slings in the US?

Also interested in your rack. Post up pictures of your sweet knots and any advice you have!

the schmuck · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 110

Are you going? I can give some beta on the Czech side of the Elbe, which is not that different from the German side. I can't send photos of my rack, because I left it in my aunt's attic, and was too terrified for photography during actual climbing. 

Monkey fists are difficult, threads & ring bolts give reliable pro, and the Czechs and Germans now make rubber slider chocks that weigh a ton, but allegedly work well. Hudy Sport on the Czech side carry the sliders (you can also order on line (hudy sport.cz)). 

Some areas allow chalk, some don't. Czech and Saxon guidebooks are designed for maximum adventure. 

Drink lots of beer...in both countries. 

Anything else?

the schmuck · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 110

Yes, there are bolts. Ring bolts on the towers, and modern glue-ins on the bluffs in the Czech Republic. 5 meter rule applies, but the towers usually have only one to two bolts per pitch. I don't think that bluff climbing is permitted on the German side. Either way, supplementing the bolts with pro is not a terrible idea. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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