Potentially dangerous conditions on the Northwest Recess of Tahquitz


Original Post
Ryan Monroe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 0

On Sunday, April 30, 2017, a huge rockslide occurred on The Consolation, a route on the Northwest Recess of Tahquitz. A Mini-cooper sized block was pulled off by a climber, and many smaller blocks went down as well. It is likely that a large volume of loose material remains on the lower pitches of routes in this area.  We do not know the final disposition of this material, but I would suggest that people take extra care climbing this route until it is cleaned.  

The rockfall was initiated by a climber approximately at the top of the fourth pitch. He was injured and had to be evacuated by helicopter. I was part of a nearby party which assisted the injured climber.  The injured climber was in decent condition when being evacuated, and is presumably still at an Idylwild hospital being treated for a broken collarbone, severe concussion, and possibly more.

This warning applies to all climbs to the left of The Long Climb (but not including it), and to the right of Whodunit (possibly including whodunit, especially the lower pitches)

I'll be writing up an incident report to be posted....wherever those things are submitted.  If you have any questions, ask away.

edit: spelling

x15x15 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 165

Let's be clear...

This warning should apply to ALL areas of Tahquitz, especially ALL routes left of Whodunit...

Ben Snow · · San Diego, Ca · Joined May 2016 · Points: 5

Is it likely that there is still loose rock on lower pitches of the consolation and surrounding climbs? 

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 310
Ben Snow wrote:

Is it likely that there is still loose rock on lower pitches of the consolation and surrounding climbs? 

Always has been, always will. 

Climb carfully take precautions.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Maybe because I haven't done that route in a few years (we're talking like a dozen or so), but I've done Consolation about three times or so (maybe four) and I don't remember much loose rock on it.  More recent freeze thaw stuff going on, or are people just yanking harder on stuff that others had the good sense to avoid?  Not pointing fingers; just curious.  

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,175
Fat Dad wrote:

Maybe because I haven't done that route in a few years (we're talking like a dozen or so), but I've done Consolation about three times or so (maybe four) and I don't remember much loose rock on it.  More recent freeze thaw stuff going on, or are people just yanking harder on stuff that others had the good sense to avoid?  Not pointing fingers; just curious.  

I think there has been some placements in bad stuff and then people fall and the gear popping rips the rock. The loose rock on C is mostly above pitch 3ish when it goes lower angle. Always big loose stuff up there and there always will be.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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