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Birthday Climb - Colorado

Original Post
Kurt G · · Monticello, UT · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 156

Hi All,

Just looking for some input for climbs.  Ill be in Colorado on my birthday and coming from the East coast everything is going to be amazing in Colorado and Im unsure what I should go after for a cool birthday climb. Ill be staying in the Denver area while im there but will also be heading down to Arizona so ill be traveling out and down Colorado.  Right now im looking at the Edge of Time but that's only because ive seen pics and it looks super cool.

Im looking for any cool single pitch moderate, 5.7 to 5.10 on sport and 5.whatever to 5.7 on trad.  for me its more about the experience and coolness of the climb than the difficulty. im looking for some Colorado classics to make me appreciate west coast climbing. Im not opposed to multi pitch but ill have 3 others with me so it would be pretty hard to make that happen. also the shorter the approach the better if possible.

I appreciate and input anyone has to offer.

thanks!

physnchips · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 0

I'll point you to East Colfax in Clear Creek Canyon with the preface that it's extremely busy on the weekends. Most of it is slightly slabby, but everything is 5.7-5.10. Nice area next to the river though. If you want to get a bit adventurous you can take the tyrol to some other areas.

Justin Laursen · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 430

I know this is multipitch, but if you're around Silverton/Ouray, Princess Ella's Magical Adventure is a classic 5.8 sport multipitch on great rock. Super fun and even has a tyrollean traverse on the approach.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

The first flatiron. Hands down. 

Ryan Nevius · · Perchtoldsdorf, AT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,837
Kurt G. wrote:

Right now im looking at the Edge of Time but that's only because ive seen pics and it looks super cool.

That's about it...It looks super cool, but there's MUCH better climbing in the area.

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883

What date?

East Colfax?  No way.  Nice setting by the river, but, mediocre climbing with crowds.  

Edge of Time has amazing views.  Its a good route.  It will be a bit zesty if near you limit.  Other routes there are ok.

wendy weiss · · boulder, co · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 10

You might want to think about doing something in Eldo. I'm thinking Calypso, though it's three pitches and it's been many years since I've done it. Just be aware that Eldo grades are a sandbag compared to Boulder Canyon and Clear Creek.

aikibujin · · Castle Rock, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 300

Single pitch, easier than 5.10 sport or 5.7 trad, party of four, shortest approach possible? Yeah, East Colfax. That's definitely the place to party.

Jon Frisby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 270
Ryan Nevius wrote:

That's about it...It looks super cool, but there's MUCH better climbing in the area.

Hella photogenic but not great climbing = awkward one move wonder

Jon Frisby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 270
wendy weiss wrote:

You might want to think about doing something in Eldo. I'm thinking Calypso, though it's three pitches and it's been many years since I've done it. Just be aware that Eldo grades are a sandbag compared to Boulder Canyon and Clear Creek.

Calypso was one of my dad's first full value pitches. Also you can just do the first pitch pretty easily, just watch about getting your rope caught on the boulders to the right

Kurt G · · Monticello, UT · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 156

thanks for the input so far everyone.  the majority of you seem to be pointing towards east Colfax and Eldo.  how are the views?  im bringing 3 friends who have never been west before and was hoping to get in a climb with some awesome views if at all possible.  thanks!

wendy weiss · · boulder, co · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 10
im bringing 3 friends who have never been west before and was hoping to get in a climb with some awesome views if at all possible.

The cliffs in Eldo are an awesome view in their own right. If you and your friends have an extra day, I suggest the fairly short and easy hike up to Lake Isabelle in the Indian Peaks. That said, you didn't say when your birthday is and I don't know about snow conditions right now or if the road into Brainard Lake is even open yet. Probably not.

Kurt G · · Monticello, UT · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 156

Haha sorry, my birthday is the 5th of June and we will be there the 5th, 6th and 7th

wendy weiss · · boulder, co · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 10
Kurt G. wrote:
Kurt G · · Monticello, UT · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 156

I should also mention that Denver area isn't set in stone, I'd be open to other parts of CO if theres good climbing and hiking.

physnchips · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 0

RMNP works too, as others have mentioned, but it's a bit of trek. Probably best choice for scenery but can be tricky to navigate.

Boulder canyon has some options, the area near Boulderado (forgot the names of the others) could work. Not the most pretty area over at Boulderado, but decent climbs. Avalon and Bihedral are options as well (I like the scenery at both those places). Sport Park could work, there's clips to lower off most the climbs there.

Rifle is a lot further out but has some good classics. It's generally at moderate to difficult in its climbs.

My only place to advice not going to is North Table Mountain as it's fine for winter climbing but not much to it otherwise.

Kurt G · · Monticello, UT · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 156
physnchips wrote:

RMNP works too, as others have mentioned, but it's a bit of trek. Probably best choice for scenery but can be tricky to navigate.

thanks, we booked a hotel in boulder last night so somewhere in that area will be best, possibly RMNP as we will be doing a hike there too.

ErikaNW · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 410

Don't go to East Colfax if you're looking for good climbing and views. Sure, there are easy single pitch routes there but it sounds like you're looking for something a bit more special to celebrate your birthday. Jurassic Park area is great for the setting - gorgeous view of Long's Peak- and Edge of Time has great position with the arete. Is it a destination route for the actual climbing? Probably not, but it has cool history being a Layton Kor route. There are also some really nice climbs in your grade range in that area. 

You should try to get to Eldo also - good single pitch cragging on the West Ridge with some moderate options. The canyon is impressive, but I guess I don't associate great views with Eldo so much unless you are doing multipitch and getting high on the formations. Although the views are certainly better than in Reading (I have family there)! Devils Head is also a great option - some really pretty views of Pikes Peak there, moderate grades and good climbing. 

Have a great trip and happy birthday!

Kurt G · · Monticello, UT · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 156

So I think Ive settled on Clear creek canyon.  particularly creek side and east Colfax.  creek side seems to have a good chunk of really highly rated climbs (mostly in the 5.7-5.9 range) and east Colfax seems to have a few 5.7 and under climbs for some of the people in my group newer to climbing.  any suggestions what we should get on or is this a bad idea all together.  also as far as views go im going to do edge of time on a separate day so CCC is more for the quality and quantity then a climb with a good view.

thanks

Jon Banks · · Longmont, CO · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 226

Keep in mind that Creekside isn't really a cragging destination. Half of it is fun sport multipitch and half takes a tyrolean traverse to get to an exposed pod on the cliff above the water. East Colfax is a nice place to hang out. Not spectactular climbing, but pretty, and great for beginners like your friends. I'll throw out another suggestion: Tiers of Zion. It's perched up above clear creek canyon, has great views, and lots of moderate sport climbs.

Kurt G · · Monticello, UT · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 156
Jon Banks wrote:

Keep in mind that Creekside isn't really a cragging destination. Half of it is fun sport multipitch and half takes a tyrolean traverse to get to an exposed pod on the cliff above the water. East Colfax is a nice place to hang out. Not spectactular climbing, but pretty, and great for beginners like your friends. I'll throw out another suggestion: Tiers of Zion. It's perched up above clear creek canyon, has great views, and lots of moderate sport climbs.

Thanks Jon.  I noticed theres not many climbs listed at Tiers of Zion, does it get crowded there?  ill be going out on a Monday.  Really Im just looking for some classic climbs that showcase Colorado and are moderate and easy to get to in the Boulder/Denver area.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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