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Kautz Glacier in May

Original Post
Nick B · · Anchorage, Alaska · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 58

Has anyone here on the forum done the Kautz in mid May or have beta on conditions out that direction?  We are planning a 3 man trip the 3rd week of May.  I have been up it before in late august when it was more of an Ice climb and snow was pretty low, but would love to get any first hand account of what an early season climb was like and if there was any gear specific thoughts for climbing around that time period. I have read the old NPS blogs about conditions which was helpful. We will be climbing in a slightly more expedition style due to early season conditions.  Thinking snowshoes for floatation since not everyone has ski mountaineering skills.

Dana Walters 1 · · Spokane, Washington · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 45

With the snow year we have had,8 wouldn't be surprised if you could almost ski it 

jackmarr Marr · · Boise ID · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 0

Hi Nick-- did you climb it? I am thinking of a mid-May objective for 2018 and really want to get on the Kautz. Would love to to the ice climb later, but a nice skimo would be fun as well. 

Nick B · · Anchorage, Alaska · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 58

We didn't.  We ended up going up the ingrham direct as it was still completely snow covered and the extrs slog felt dumb without  getting to climb ice.  It was also sketchy due to heavy snowfall right before we headed up.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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