Hats off to belayer in this R&I weekend whipper


Original Post
amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 0
n00b · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 40

"I walked away from the fall with a small cut on the back of the head [he was wearing a helmet] and no lasting damage so all is well,” he says. A “very nicely seated” DMM size 5 Dragon cam caught the fall.

garrett knorr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 55

 Why was he flipped upside down? Was the rope around his foot/body when he fell or what?

crackatoa Spiesbach · · Boulder,Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 65
garrett knorr wrote:

 Why was he flipped upside down? Was the rope around his foot/body when he fell or what?

He was just falling in a weird diagonal angle and fell into the side of his ropes is what it looks like

Edit: Jk I slowed it down one of his ropes does seem to grab his leg though the poor quality makes it hard to really see. 

Adam Gellman · · Jersey City · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 115
garrett knorr wrote:

 Why was he flipped upside down? Was the rope around his foot/body when he fell or what?

It looks like his left leg was behind the rope and flipped him over

Jon Rhoderick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 590

Belayer should have been kneeling......

Nathan Flaim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0

It looks like his left leg falls in front of the rope as he comes off, causing him to invert as the rope comes taut.  He really pile-drives directly into the wall head first.   Yikes.  It also appears that had the belayer not jumped away from the route quickly, it would've been a ground fall.  

garrett knorr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 55

If his belayer was kneeling he couldn't have jumped backwards. (I can't tell if your'e kidding or not)

 And yeah I think the rope was behind his leg also. 

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 15
garrett knorr wrote:

If his belayer was kneeling he couldn't have jumped backwards. (I can't tell if your'e kidding or not)

 And yeah I think the rope was behind his leg also. 

He was kidding.

Firestone · · California · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 449

Also to point out, they were using doubles wish strech more and there weren't that many pieces in.

Can someone post the video of a belayer in the creek yanking in yards of slack as a few pieces blew? That's one of my favorite belayer saves leader videos out there!

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 100

If I had been the belayer I would have asked the leader to see if he couldn't get in any more pro or double up what he had before committing any further. A belayer doesn't necessarily have to be completely passive, particularly on a short single pitch crag like that because sometimes belaying isn't the only way to keep your partner safe - speak up if something doesn't look or feel right.

Tony T. · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 10
Healyje wrote:

If I had been the belayer I would have asked the leader to see if he couldn't get in any more pro or double up what he had before committing any further. A belayer doesn't necessarily have to be completely passive, particularly on a short single pitch crag like that because sometimes belaying isn't the only way to keep your partner safe - speak up if something doesn't look or feel right.

I'm guessing since this is in the UK, every placement opportunity was used...because there was only one...for like 30 feet.  Yikes.

Kris Fiore · · Burlington, Vermont · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 1,393

Can someone post the video of a belayer in the creek yanking in yards of slack as a few pieces blew? That's one of my favorite belayer saves leader videos out there!

The best belayer save I've ever seen, indeed. I can honestly say that I'm a good belayer and if I was belaying that fall the climber would have decked. Period.

matt riesland · · Running Springs, CA · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 0

"If I had been the belayer I would have asked the leader to see if he couldn't get in any more pro or double up what he had before committing any further. A belayer doesn't necessarily have to be completely passive, particularly on a short single pitch crag like that because sometimes belaying isn't the only way to keep your partner safe - speak up if something doesn't look or feel right"

How about, "Hey, bro, the rope is under your leg. If you fall you are going to get flipped upside down!" Belayer's responsibility to notify leader of dangerous situations; your clear duty. The rope was obviously in this position for a while with plenty of time to remedy the danger. 

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 21,755

Rope was behind the left leg, you can see it in the full-screen view.
That's why the climber didn't flip until the rope went tight.

And yeah, I've been rather constantly reminding partners about keeping the rope out from between their/behind their legs when out to the side for about 25 years, ever since this happened to Willie. That was friend and trauma doc Alex checking Willie out before taking him to the ER for stiches...



I do see that even in certain experience partners that they are always putting the rope between their feet, even when moving laterally.  It's even intentional, they've got this "keep the rope between your feet" thing going on as if that's the point rather than "keep it out from behind your heels."  
For my own part, when I am above gear to the side, you can bet your bottom that the rope is at least over my toes instead of under it when I start moving up, or oven over my knee, just to be sure.  I don't want it behind a leg.  Helmet or not, whiplash sucks.

And yeah, in that video the belayer did a great job of keeping the leader off of the deck. Nice work on that aspect of it.  Again, helmet or not, that could have been a broken neck. the helmet can't save you from doing a pile driver.  Helmet or no, that's still all of your body weight crushing your neck.

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 100
Tony T. wrote:

I'm guessing since this is in the UK, every placement opportunity was used...because there was only one...for like 30 feet.  Yikes.

Quote from the R&I page comments for the video:

"Luke Mansfield · Nottingham, United Kingdom: Theres soo much gear on that route, and a good rest....I'm really shocked he fell so far having used that route for fall practice before."

roger fritz from rockford, IL · · Rockford, IL · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 20
FrankPS wrote:

I thought he meant that the belayer should  have been praying. In many situations, praying is appropriate, in this situation it was great that the belayer wasn't focusing solely on prayer but rather being attentive so as to adequately respond when his bro took a fall. Peace, cheers and always wear a helmet while your climb is being filmed!

Paul Hutton · · Dirtbaggin' western US · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 601

I flip my toe under the rope and pick it up with my foot placements, so my feet stay under the rope, always. 

Terry Parker · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2006 · Points: 0

Leg got behind the "rope" during the fall and flipped him. Happened to me once.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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