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Next Shoe Recommendations


Original Post
Luke R 84 · · Georgia · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 353

So I climb in Katana Laces, and will likely resole them for the second time within 6 months. I've noticed some decreased ability compared to my TC Pros which are still almost new (it's hard to choose them over Katanas when I feel super confident in them on most everything). I climb in the southeast, and have been hitting slab and face climbing a lot (but percentage -wise, 85% in the gym), but I'm wanting to add another shoe to the quiver. 

TLDR; I have and love Katanas, have TC Pros which I am still finding their niche, would like to add another shoe, more for sport and bouldering.

Options I've weighed:

Another set of Katana Lace for redpoint days?

I've always wanted a pair of Solutions (Butora Acros would be ok too)

Muira VS? 

Skwama?

Futura/Genius?

Last Question: If I went with these "edgeless" shoes, will they alter my style if/when I switch between them and Katanas?  I'm almost afraid I'll forget how to climb (and also unsure if that would be a bad thing or not)

Todd Bruns · · Golden , Colorado · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0
  • I'm told the Katiki is like the Katana only better. The down turned toe would be great for sport and bouldering. 
Brian Abram · · Celo, NC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 498

If they fit your foot, the Kataki is similar to a Katana Lace. With a Kataki/Katana Lace, there is rarely a reason to choose the TC Pro instead unless you need ankle protection for some reason. Which is rare in the SE. The Kataki/Katana Lace does better nearly everything the TC Pro does.

The Skwama fits similarly to to Kataki. It is better for gym and hard bouldering. It is much softer, smears better, and the XS Grip is stickier to rounded holds. XS Grip will wear out MUCH faster than XS Edge, though. If you are spending lots of time in a gym, those might be a consideration. If they fit and you don't mind the rubber wearing out quickly

Otaki is a velcro version of the Kataki with all its pluses and minuses. 

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/112854640/la-sportiva-kataki

PatMas · · Tulsa, OK · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

If considering the Acro I would say get the Tenaya Oasi, especially since you already have a few 'stiffer' shoes. The tenayas are sticky, and super comfy even downsized a lot. (They run a touch big, so like 1/2 to full US size down from a sportiva equivilent). The Butora has better toe hooking and seems a bit stiffer , but just about everything else I like my oasi.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

So the "niche" of TC Pros is very obvious: crack climbing.  Otherwise, they are very similar shoes to KL, except without the downturn, so yes...you'll notice a higher edging performance from the Katanas.  Miuras are very similar to Katana Laces, albeit better at edging but less comfortable (more downturned).  It doesn't sound like you have a need for them, but they will boulder and do better on overhangs than Katana Laces.  I like soft shoes for bouldering/steep sport, so Solutions or Acros would be a good bet, or apparently the Otakis (haven't used them personally).  As far as "forgetting how to climb"; this doesn't happen.  There might be a brief adjustment period when you switch from a stiff shoe to a soft shoe and need to remember to actually apply force, but I like to switch between 2 different shoes (one stiff for edging, currently Miura VS, one soft for steeps, Solutions) depending on what I'm climbing.  Not only does this help to ensure that you have the best tool for the task, but it also spreads the wear out and helps your shoes last longer.

Goat Slayer · · Olympia, WA · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

Genius/Futuras are great. Super fun to climb in, and just as good at edging as any traditional edged shoe. More fun to climb in than any other shoe IMO.

Futuras are more convenient to put on, for sure. Genius may be a better fit.

They suck for crack climbing, so if you're going to be doing much of that I'd recommend a different shoe or they'll get trashed.

I own katana laces as well, which I bought after burning out a pair of Scarpa Instincts.

the instincts are my favorite shoe of all, highly recommended. Insanely comfortable, insanely great at edging, they hold their shape very well. 

Xan Calonne · · Joshua Tree, Ca · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 35

If your goal is to diversify your shoe quiver, then it seems like the Solution/Skwama/Edgeless shoe route is the way to go. I would agree with Ted that switching between a stiff and soft shoe shouldn't require any significant adaptation in style; however, since you asked about switching between an edgeless shoe and a regular shoe...Yes, there is a difference in the way you use your feet, and you'll notice that, and it will impact your climbing. To what degree and whether or not that's a positive or negative thing depends on you, but it shouldn't be too significant after you have some mileage in the shoes. Based on what you own, and what you have stated, I would recommend either the Solution (since you've always wanted these) or the Skwama. Of those two, the Skwama will be more different feeling (softer). Of course, ymmv. 

Happy climbing,

Xan

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 456

I'm not super huge on downturned shoes, but I have the pythons and I like them a lot, provided I can take them off between climbs. The slipper is really nice is conforms to the shape of my foot. It has a single velcro strap at the top but I find I only ever need it if I'm heel hooking. If you're gonna be taking your shoes off after every burn on a boulder, a slipper is nice to have as it's easy to slip on and easy to take off. 

Bnice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

I used to own a pair of Katana Laces and loved them. After that I got the Miura Lace which I liked but it was stiffer and less sensitive for smearing and stemming/compression movements.  It edged like a dream obviously. After that I used the Tenaya Iati which I loved. Downturned yet sensitive with the Grip rubber, also edged well. A good all around shoe. My favorite shoe however has been the Otaki women's version as it has the Grip 2 rubber. The Otaki is stiffer than the Skwama but since I opted for the women's version for the Grip 2 rubber I find its sensitive and smears like a dream while still edging really well.  Like someone else mentioned the Grip rubber will wear faster than the Edge rubber but for slabs the Grip will provide better sensitivity.  My favorite all around shoe yet. 

Like others have mentioned the Kataki is supposed to be a blend of the Otaki and Katana Lace. So if you prefer laces you should look into the Katakis when they are released, which should be soon. 

Gordon88 · · Pennsylvania · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 0

I like the Muria VS better than the Katana Lace. I think they are about the same in comfort, although others disagree. I think the fit, comfort, and the sensitivity is similar, but the VS edges way better. If only they made a Muria VS lace... 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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