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Squarenail (Fresno) - New Bolted Anchors at Base of Routes?


Original Post
Beau Griffith · · Fresno, CA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 20

I noticed this a couple weeks ago and am just now getting around to posting it. I was at Squarenail (local Fresno crag) which has plenty of aging, quasi-rusted bolts on its beautiful slab face and someone had placed at least two (possibly three) 2-bolt anchors at the base of a couple of the routes. Has anyone else who visits Squarenail seen this? Does anyone know what it's for? The face below the main ledge doesn't seem very fun for climbing. Perhaps bolting practice? Belay anchor (I hope not)?

C Brooks · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 546

I'll get out the bolt choppers

squiddo Siddens · · Mountain View, CA · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 15

Not shocking. The last time I climbed there the sheer number of bolts was appalling. Being able to climb and clip bolts on 3 routes within a few feet of each other gave new meaning to the grid bolt term. Crowded to say the least.

Carla R · · San Jose, CA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 110

Tollhouse and squarenail both have that grid-bolted feeling. I'm not entirely sure which area of Squarenail you are talking about but when I've been there I usually rap down to where there climbs are below that big aid boulder (Mr. Wizard, Zig Zag crack or something, some slabs/liebacks, etc). This involves getting an anchor in from the boulders to get down to the anchors on Easy Rider I believe, then rapping down from there. There's a gully that you can take down there but it's so loose I always rap in then climb out on Easy Rider. Maybe those anchors are the one's you're talking about?

Ben Horowitz · · Berkeley · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 123

Squarenail has the most egregious grid-bolting I've ever seen, particularly those far left slab routes... It is already a lost cause; I wouldn't worry about more bolts.

C Brooks · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 546
Carla R wrote:

Tollhouse and squarenail both have that grid-bolted feeling.

I'm surprised you think Tollhouse is grid bolted. There is a lot of run-out climbing - Wandering Taoist and Balls for example.

Carla R · · San Jose, CA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 110
C Brooks wrote:

I'm surprised you think Tollhouse is grid bolted. There is a lot of run-out climbing - Wandering Taoist and Balls for example.

Well, I said it has that 'feeling' of grid-bolting. Sometimes it's easy to get a little off-route. But I agree, lots of runouts...Wandering Taoist is a great one! 

rain cloud · · the abyss (kansas) · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 195

someone put in anchors at the base to  lead solo.duh;) 

Beau Griffith · · Fresno, CA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 20
rain cloud wrote:

someone put in anchors at the base to  lead solo.duh;) 

This is the only thing I could think of. For those above, there seems to be confusion - they are not at the "bottom" of the top part of the mountain i.e. the approach, to where you could use them to rappel to any existing route. They are at the bottom of all the existing routes i.e. where the belayer would stand. But I can't possibly imagine anyone would need a belay anchor requiring bolts.

And to those who are complaining about grid-bolting, thanks for your input. I was just asking if anyone knew what the new, weird, out-of-place anchors were for, not a commentary on the dynamics of how well- or poorly-bolted the routes themselves were.

C Brooks · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 546
C Brooks · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 546
Carla R wrote:

Wandering Taoist is a great one! 

+1 ... I love that climb -- although I may have cried like a baby while leading it

squiddo Siddens · · Mountain View, CA · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 15
beau Griffith wrote:

And to those who are complaining about grid-bolting, thanks for your input. I was just asking if anyone knew what the new, weird, out-of-place anchors were for, not a commentary on the dynamics of how well- or poorly-bolted the routes themselves were.

Dude it's the internet. That's 85% of what it's used for. Comentary. Sheesh 

Aaron Slaven · · Fresno, CA · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 445

So speaking of Squarenail....

http://abc30.com/news/two-dead-one-airlifted-after-crash-on-the-hwy-168-four-lanes/1945330/

Crazy. 

Update: This truck literally crossed all 4 lanes going downhill at the Squarenail pullout and launched over the cliff!

C Brooks · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 546

^ Yikes!

C Brooks · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 546

Mark Fletcher put in a 5 pitch 5.6/5.7 sport route route which you rap into from the Elvis wall. I am guessing that is what the new anchor bolts are for.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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