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Free Climbs in Deso/Grey Canyons from River (5.10 range)

Original Post
MTmoses · · Hamilton, MT · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 5

Anyone have any info to share about potential climbing from the Green River in Desolation and Grey Canyons? On a seven day float at the end of May and would really like to get some climbing in. If anyone knows of any free climbing along the way I'd be very stoked on any info you could share. Not trying to aid up anything like The Siren. Thanks!

Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,580

There are some cliffs with decent rock near the river around Wire Fence rapid that NOLS sometimes climbs on.  I doubt there are bolted anchors, so bring a rack and lots of webbing.  

Not sure how hard you climb, but the Siren is nearly all free at 5.10 with a short 15' section of aid that you could french free, or maybe even free at well protected 5.12.  The approach is not easy though.

Other than that, it is just adventure exploring.  The rock varies between pretty good and absolutely atrocious.  The Wasatch formation rock is great, but it tends to be guarded by nasty bands of Green River formation.  The cliff across from Red Point camp looks especially appealing, but no known routes and they'll be long.  If you do put up new routes, expect lots of trundling of big loose blocks with solid rock underneath.

I've not really found any worthwhile bouldering, but you never know.

Rob Dillon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 710

We climbed a few single-pitch routes and installed anchors atop them on a Deso trip a few years ago, but unfortunately I don't remember too much about them.    Um, on river right, close to the river in a tiny side canyon perhaps,and kind of in the middle of the trip. Hope that helps...

The Wire Fence routes are pretty good, cleaned up, and roast until evening.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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