Mallorca,Spain DWS questions


Original Post
seth0687 · · Fort Collins · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 375

Hey Guys,

I'll be in Spain for the most part of this September; Landing in Lisbon, Portugal on the 8th and flying out Barcelona, Spain on the 27th.  I think we are going to be able to get in a few days in Mallorca before we fly out of Barcelona.  That being said, I was wondering if you guys could help me out with some info or your experiences.  I will not be bringing any gear aside from rock shoes and don't have much time to climb.  However, the wife has agreed that some deep water soloing would be fine.  I recently purchased the RockFax guide and it should be here in a week or so.

1. Where did you enjoy staying in Mallorca

2. Is there one or two crags that are friendly for moderate climbers....I doubt I'll be getting up anything more than 6a/6b and with the wife some offerings between 4a-6b would be nice. 

3. Did you prefer public transportation, renting a car, or how did you get around?

4. Are there any local climbing shops to stop by on the island for beta and current access issues?

5. Any other advice?

Thanks,

Seth

Tom Rangitsch · · Lander, WY · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,504

I spent 3 weeks there in October of 2015.  The DWS is probably the most fun I have ever had as a climber.  I was with my wife and two young kids, so we were definitely on the family plan.  We stayed in Porto Colom, which is a beautiful sleepy town south of Cala Barques, which is where I did most of my DWS.  It is probably the most popular sector and has a few more moderate things, although my favorite routes were 11+ or 12-.  The beach there is very nice.  We rented a car.  I don't think you could get to much of the climbing with public transport.  I never went to a climbing shop so I can't comment on that one.  Lastly let me reiterate that DWS is crazy awesomeness.

seth0687 · · Fort Collins · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 375

Thanks Tom!

cjdrover · · Watertown, MA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 355

Seth,

My wife and I spent a few days in Mallorca during our honeymoon, also brought only shoes. First, it's a lot of fun, but many areas were taller than I imagined! Falls from above 7-8m start to really hurt if you hit the water less than perfectly. We were climbing mostly 5+ to 6b/c at the time. Check out the Virgin area at Cala sa Nau. Max 30 ft falls, fun routes with easy water exits from 4+ to 7a, plus it's in a sheltered cove with a cool big cave to check out.

We also went to Santanyi. There is one small wall with a few 5+ at modest height, and if you swim across the cove a long 6+/7 traverse in a cave roof that never gets higher than. 20 ft or so. You can also get over to Eat Pontas to check it out, and even top out on the arch with some 6bish near the water and some very easy (5.4?) soloing above that quickly becomes hiking.

Have fun and PM me if you need any more info.

Chris

seth0687 · · Fort Collins · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 375

Thanks chris!!  Great info. 

Seth

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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