Butora Acros for Cracks!


Original Post
Hans Martin · · Seattle · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

Has anyone any experience with the Butora Acros? I'm in the market for new shoes and really enjoy that whole single strap slipper design. I was wondering how the Acros would fair in cracks considering I mostly climb with gear, but enjoy the benefits of an all-arounder shoe. 

bkozak · · Sterling, VA · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 20

Seems like a cool shoe, but cracks and trad climbing is definitely not the target market for it.  That shoe is more for steep sport climbing and bouldering due to the substantial downturn.  A flat , comfortable shoe that doesn't have your toes curled will be best for cracks and all around trad climbing.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 45

Ow ow ow.  No.  Don't do it.

Jack Stephenson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0

I mean you theoretically could size them to where your toes are flat. That massive swab of rubber on the forefoot would probably be nice in a crack. 

Jon Rhoderick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 590

Honestly give it a go, the perception for what is a crack climbing shoe is changing go 1.5-2 sizes tighter than what would be Redpoint performance size for you

Rob Warden...Space Lizard · · Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an... · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 0
Jon Rhoderick wrote:

Honestly give it a go, the perception for what is a crack climbing shoe is changing go 1.5-2 sizes tighter than what would be Redpoint performance size for you

I see what you did there. That being said, I have used solutions in finger cracks to great effect. Honnold does too.

Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 438
Rob Warden...Space Lizard wrote:

I see what you did there. That being said, I have used solutions in finger cracks to great effect. Honnold does too.

I normally climb trad with katana laces that are sized to just curl, but not "knuckle" by big toe. For a real thin finger/tips crack I actually preferred my sport sized skwamas though also. I found it easy to wiggle more rubber into those tiny pods and torque it with the soft rubber and more "chiseled" side profile of the toe. Good god I would never want to jam hand cracks with them though. 

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 45

Yeah, I tried a few hand-sized jams in my Solutions...ow.  Also caused some delam and damage to the toe patch...this more than anything is why I really would not recommend this.  You don't need extra rubber for jamming and it's much less durable than regular uppers.  Finger cracks make sense.

Jon Rhoderick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 590

Haha whoops, maybe shouldn't comment minutes after sharing a spliff...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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