Middle/Ring Finger Flexor injury


Original Post
Jason Gorr · · Ottawa · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 5

Its my right hand/dominate hand. Basically looking to continue training without aggravating it any further. Any thoughts or ideas?

Politically Correct Ball · · From WA to AZ · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 5

Stop training until it's 100% <-voice of experience 

Jeff G. · · Fort Collins · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 875

Very bad idea to rest until it's 100% , whatever that means.  Rest for the initial inflammatory period, usually the first 3-10 days depending on severity of injury.

Then you should start with pain free activities and with gentle stretching while you're in the tissue repair phase.  It's crucial that the collagen fibers that are formed to patch up the damaged area are aligned in parallel bundles.  This means activity and gentle stretch.  Immobilization and complete rest will set you up for failure.  That's why so many people fight with pulley and tendon injuries for months and years.  They don't do the proper activities in this early phase.  Train as much as you can with any activities that don't cause pain.  If that's climbing juggy 5.8 then climb juggy 5.8.  The tissue repair phase can last from 3-12 weeks post injury, again depending on severity of initial trauma.

Next is tissue remodeling phase.  This is the time to progressively load the newly repaired tissues.  This is tricky and usually requires guidance.  Maybe not for an internet forum.

Our tissues are only as strong as the forces we place on them.  If you rest for 3 months until all symptoms are 100%  gone and then go out and load those tissues, they will fail and you will re-injure.  It's critical that you progressively load.

(I'm an orthopedic physical therapist and I've practiced for 29 years and I treat a large number of climbers.  This is based on dozens of climber examples and thousands of other athlete examples.)

Mateo San Pedro · · OR · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 280

Complete rest is a bad idea. So is continuing to train. Middle path, my son. Middle path. But start slow after a brief rest allowing time to assess severity.

Good tips on the Training Beta podcast recently titled "Esther Smith on How to Heal Your Finger Injury" but for me I used a Powerweb, ice sleeve and massage.

Henri Alexander · · Dallas · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 511

@Jeff G. - Would you be willing to review my post and let me know your thoughts about my specific type of injury? I understand and have practiced your advice above but have never had an anterior injury. Getting some direction would be mega appreciated!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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