Longest Established Climb in the World?


Original Post
20 kN · · Hawaii · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,128

Any idea what's the longest established rock climb in the world? Note that by climb I dont mean some ridge scramble with 50 pitches of 4th class on it. I am talking about a continuous technical climb, aid or free. Trango Towers has some routes that are upwards of 5000' long which is the longest I am aware of.

Jason Todd · · Cody, WY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 643

Mt. Thor in Baffin has to be in the running.

Good discussion on the topic here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1058930/Biggest-big-wall

And of course the mythical Bronson Route:

MEN, BURT BRONSON HERE. I HAVE RETURNED FROM ANOTHER EPIC, YET SUCCESSFUL STAY IN BAFFIN. OUR TEAM (CONSISTING OF ONLY ME) COMPLETED 17 NEW ROUTES. THE HARDEST, "WHY WOMEN SHOULD STAY AT HOME", WAS COMPLETED OVER 84 DAYS. THIS IS, SO FAR, THE BOLDEST ROUTE YET DONE ON THE ISLAND. AT 5.14C, A5++, PDH, WI 13, M14+, GRADE IX, V14, B3, SIT START, THIS ROUTE WAS DONE GROUND UP WITH NO HOLES DRILLED ON THE ASCENT. THE ROUTE WAS ESTABLISHED IN PURE ALPINE STYLE WITH ME STAYING ON THE WALL FOR THE ENTIRE 84 DAYS. I LOST 77 POUNDS ON THE WALL. THE LINE CONSISTS OF 114 PITCHES AND GOES UP A NEWLY DISCOVERED WALL THAT ONLY I HAVE SEEN. ACCORDING TO MY MEASUREMENTS, THE WALL IS THE TALLEST AND MOST OVERHANGING WALL IN THE WORLD. AT 17,000 SHEER VERTICAL FEET AND OVERHANGING 9,000 FEET, IT IS SURE TO NEVER HAVE A REPEAT - ESPECIALLY BY A WOMAN. THIS ROUTE EPITOMIZES THE HARD MAN CLIMBING EXPERIENCE.

DaveBaker · · Durham, NC · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 8

Quoting from the gunks app:

The Great Wall of China is a 9,000 foot, 67 pitch girdle traverse of the Trapps, first done by Ken Nichols and Dave Rosenstein in May of 1987. At the time it was considered to be the longest rock climb in the world, but lost that title to the 75 pitch girdle traverse of El Cap in 1997.

20 kN · · Hawaii · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,128
DaveBaker wrote:

Quoting from the gunks app:

The Great Wall of China is a 9,000 foot, 67 pitch girdle traverse of the Trapps, first done by Ken Nichols and Dave Rosenstein in May of 1987. At the time it was considered to be the longest rock climb in the world, but lost that title to the 75 pitch girdle traverse of El Cap in 1997.

Is that the bolt killer Ken Nichols?

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 45

Lame!  Traverses don't count. :p

Jon Rhoderick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 590
20 kN wrote:

Is that the bolt killer Ken Nichols?

Yeup

20 kN · · Hawaii · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,128
Jon Rhoderick wrote:

Yeup

Hua, I wasent aware he actually climbs.

ViperScale · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 165
Ted Pinson wrote:

Lame!  Traverses don't count. :p

That takes alot of climbs out if it doesn't count if any part of it traverses and without the tranverse alot of routes are not climbable.

Xam · · Boulder, Co · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 8
20 kN wrote:

Hua, I wasent aware he actually climbs.

http://www.climbing.com/news/ken-nichols-10-000th-ascent-of-511/

n00b · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 40
Jason Todd wrote:

Mt. Thor in Baffin has to be in the running.

Good discussion on the topic here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1058930/Biggest-big-wall

And of course the mythical Bronson Route:

MEN, BURT BRONSON HERE. I HAVE RETURNED FROM ANOTHER EPIC, YET SUCCESSFUL STAY IN BAFFIN. OUR TEAM (CONSISTING OF ONLY ME) COMPLETED 17 NEW ROUTES. THE HARDEST, "WHY WOMEN SHOULD STAY AT HOME", WAS COMPLETED OVER 84 DAYS. THIS IS, SO FAR, THE BOLDEST ROUTE YET DONE ON THE ISLAND. AT 5.14C, A5++, PDH, WI 13, M14+, GRADE IX, V14, B3, SIT START, THIS ROUTE WAS DONE GROUND UP WITH NO HOLES DRILLED ON THE ASCENT. THE ROUTE WAS ESTABLISHED IN PURE ALPINE STYLE WITH ME STAYING ON THE WALL FOR THE ENTIRE 84 DAYS. I LOST 77 POUNDS ON THE WALL. THE LINE CONSISTS OF 114 PITCHES AND GOES UP A NEWLY DISCOVERED WALL THAT ONLY I HAVE SEEN. ACCORDING TO MY MEASUREMENTS, THE WALL IS THE TALLEST AND MOST OVERHANGING WALL IN THE WORLD. AT 17,000 SHEER VERTICAL FEET AND OVERHANGING 9,000 FEET, IT IS SURE TO NEVER HAVE A REPEAT - ESPECIALLY BY A WOMAN. THIS ROUTE EPITOMIZES THE HARD MAN CLIMBING EXPERIENCE.

Is that quote for real? That dude's a douche.

bheller · · SL UT · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 923

Alberta's Mt. Yamnuska girdle traverse "Its All McConnell's Fault" 11a 2.8km 82 pitches

Maynard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 3
Maynard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 3

He should be posting the 20,000 ascent anytime now.

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 615

Going off of your title where you don't specify "rock climb", I'll suggest an alpine route.

Nanga Parbat, Central Pillar of the Rupal Face (VII M5 X, 5.9, WI4 4100m) has got to be one of the longest.  Steve House and Vince Anderson put up the first ascent with great style in 2005.  Insane stuff.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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