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I can plan my own trip... but, help a brother out


Original Post
Rob Warden...Space Lizard · · Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an… · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 115

So, I get all of May and some of June off. I want to go to Yosimite with my girlfriend.  Meather ofnus have been before. I could use a bit of helping finding good routes off the beaten track that will be a good challenge for me and not too much out of her pay grade. 

Before you start kicking out the standard snake hike or nut cracker beta and flaming me for not checking the forums. 

She is a 12+ 13- leader sport climbing, 11+ comfortably on gear. Typically we are great well matched partners. 

However,  She is in her 2nd year of a grueling doctorate program and it's taken a toll on her. Shes not feeling fit enough to really crush the stuff that typically comes to mind for the valley.

I climb 12+ 13- on gear many places (zion, red rock, the black, questa dome, WA pass) 

I would love it if we could do some hard climbs together that are not too sustained.  Long ish routes,anything super long will tucker her out.  Anything 5.10 with a 5.12 crux come to mind?

Would you please help me out? It would mean a lot to me to give her the best trip imaginable. Where she gets to send something she can feel proud off. While avoiding getting shut down and depressed by her workload. 

Addtionally if you have suggestions for 5.10 to 5.11- routes that are less frequently done but high quality  please let me know. Long approach is no big deal. 

I know crowd sourcing where to stay/camp, is of course a long forum topic. But i would love more beta realted to having a van. I just got a pretty amazing van and would be really excited to make the most of it. 

Thank you,

Your friend the lizard 

I have both Sloan books (aid and free) 

I want to do some hard nail ups in the valley too if you looking for a partner. 

Old lady H · · Boise, Idaho · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 290

Can't help you a bit with planning, but you are a nice man!

Bump.

OLH

BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 340

Rob, you might want to ask this ? on stuportopo.... might get more/better responses 

Old lady H · · Boise, Idaho · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 290

Or pop it on general climbing. Lots of people know Yosemite without living in n. Cal.

OLH

Rob Warden...Space Lizard · · Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an… · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 115

Thanks for the reply the two of you. 

This woman is amazing and deserves to be put first. 

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Just go to the Needles.  Plenty there to suit both your paygrades  

grubbers · · Mass. · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 0

Can't help you with routes, but there are a few pullouts in El Portal where you should be able to sleep in the van without much issue. It's only about 30 min outside the valley.

Stanley McKnight · · Paradise Valley, Arizona · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 268

Astroman or the north Face of the rostrum come to mind, not sure if you'll have prOblems with crowds but those would both make a nice day 

Scott O · · Anchorage · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 65

El Portal for the van life. 

https://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Yosemite-Valley-Climbs/dp/1467596922 will help you get off the beaten path. I don't climb at your grade, so no further help there. 

climberkalen · · kern county, CA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 68

I second fat dad with the needles but the roads to the lower and upper are still closed...I check with the ranger station pretty regularly.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

One, the Valley is, well, the Valley, and shouldn't be missed.  However, even in May the lower road, with access, to Dome Rock, will be open.  The upper road to the Needles proper probably won't open until after Labor Day, maybe later because of the snow this year, but you could always hike in (3 miles) and have the campground to yourself.  

Rob Warden...Space Lizard · · Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an… · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 115

Thank you  kind MP people

Rob Warden...Space Lizard · · Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an… · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 115

My van is not 4wd, but is lifted and has a rear locker. So I can get it places. Seems like el portal is a good call. 

Rostrum is something I would like to do. But may be taxing and demoralizing if she can't follow her old onsight grade. Might not risk it. 

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Rob Warden...Space Lizard wrote:

Rostrum is something I would like to do. But may be taxing and demoralizing if she can't follow her old onsight grade. Might not risk it. 

What about style of climbing? On my first trips to the Valley I was able to learn crack climbing pretty quickly and was able to manage 11a. But the 5.8 and 5.9 Valley off-widths and flared chimneys spit me out easily and regularly. Mr. Natural (10d/11a) on the Apron - not a real problem; Moby Dick Center (10a) El Cap base had me nearly vomiting by the time I thrutched my way up the final wide bit to the belay; Reed's Pinnacle Direct (5.9) no big deal - until that bit of 5" in the last 15'. On almost any longer Valley route other than slab you'll probably encounter wide.

I also suck at ring-locks, so the crux of Lunatic Fringe (10c) was somewhat problematic.

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 420

There is a ton of stuff to do there and you can do utter classics and have a good time climbing well below your usual standards.

For anyone with small hands the 5.10 thin hands circuit is a real ego booster (easy 5.10 with thin hands):

1. Five and Dome

2. Lunatic Fringe

3. Cramming

4. The Thief

5. Finger Lickin' (probably 11a, imo)

6. Vanishing Point

7. New Dimensions

8. Almost forgot Stone Groove

9. Sherries Crack etc.

10. Gripper

11. Jo-Jo

And those are all 5/5 stars or whatever your classic scale.

Just do classics at Arch Rock and the Cookie, etc (mostly 5.10 and 5.11) and if those go well then go for the Rostrum. Astroman is a much more physical adventure imo. She should have a good time on all of those with no thugish wide to worry about. There are 5.12 roof alternate finishes on the Rostrum that are about as exposed as exposure gets.

Rostrum is about endurance for the grade and it will test that. Astroman has more powerful cruxes as well as endurance, imo. Harding slot is easier for small hands/bodies. Total nightmare if you have a 44" chest.

Rob Warden...Space Lizard · · Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an… · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 115

Thanks tut and Marc.

She's strong, but not a super experienced crack climber. Wide is not her thing.

I have a lot of experience on all sizes of crack. Her not so much.  It's why astroman isn't even on the list right now. 

Good beta from all and think you for your time. 

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Damn, dude.  You two need to reproduce...your kids will come out climbing 5.12 lol.  Sorry, nothing productive to add...just mad props.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60
Ted Pinson wrote:

Damn, dude.  You two need to reproduce...your kids will come out climbing 5.12 lol.  Sorry, nothing productive to add...just mad props.

Don't do that unless you want to join the fat dad club.  Plus, my wife stopped climbing after having kids.

Also, keep in mind that what some consider perfect hands size can be a tough size if you have thinner hands.  I have thinner hands, so 1-1/2" is cruiser, whereas what others with bigger hands consider prime, 2", is pretty brutal.  Climbs like Outer Limits and Five and Dime have long sections of 2".  New Dimensions is also a good metric of whether you're ready for longer, hard climbs.  Crammin', though only .10d, has a harder crux than New D (go figure).  Finally, if everything is coming together nicely, don't overlook, the West Face of El Cap.  The hard parts are mostly thin face or thin crack.  Long, but nothing super burly.  

AmandaM · · Jackson, WY · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 10
Rob Warden...Space Lizard wrote:

Addtionally if you have suggestions for 5.10 to 5.11- routes that are less frequently done but high quality  please let me know. Long approach is no big deal. 

 

The West Face of Rixon's Pinnacle was really fun the last time I was there and it was empty. https://www.mountainproject.com/v/west-face/107414775  I don't remember the wide part mentioned in the route description, so it must not have been that bad. :)

However, we did it in October, and I could see the route being less safe in the Spring due to rock fall.

M Alexander · · SLO, CA · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 20

Chapel Wall has some harder stuff, both face and crack and off the beaten path but right in the valley. 

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
King Tut wrote:

Just do classics at Arch Rock and the Cookie, etc (mostly 5.10 and 5.11) and if those go well then go for the Rostrum. Astroman is a much more physical adventure imo. She should have a good time on all of those with no thugish wide to worry about. There are 5.12 roof alternate finishes on the Rostrum that are about as exposed as exposure gets.

Rostrum is about endurance for the grade and it will test that.

If Rob or anyone wants to get a good feel for the Rostrum:

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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