Removing the bail biner on wet dream(CCC)?


J.D.D. · Apr 20, 2017 · lyons, co · Joined May 2012 · Points: 5

That's stealing.  


Ronald Beimel · Apr 20, 2017 · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0
dsauerbrun wrote:

I can't remember if it was aluminum or steel. I just ordered https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002X22M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 so hopefully that'll cut through whatever metal is on there. Thanks for the rest of the info!

FYI I bought that same mini hacksaw a few years ago and the cruddy cast aluminum handle snapped the first time I tried to use it... Ended up with the pricier Bahco version http://a.co/cEPeVgj and it is way better quality.


Michael Schneider · Apr 20, 2017 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 85

You say it hangs from a bulge on a short roof or overhang? That may complicate your stance. I would use a chain of 2or3 'biners. Clip to them, to orient and weight the target 'biner. 

Aim the saw blade at the point where the locking sleeve goes over the nose of the locker. This should help get the cut started. 

You could aim for either side of the sleeve, but if it is a notched 'biner it may be less material to cut thru at the gate opening side.  .  . . 

(Edit or not, the thinnest point might be the hinge side!?)

May be you can lock the orientation in place by loading the screw-gate against the edge of the hole of the hanger?  .  .  

 Thinking about safety,  (Eye protection) and plan to work at head height, so your arms are not to extended. I'm picturing : almost a kneeling position where you may be able to get centered at the right height. If not you may try to stay above the bolt and reach down. Good on ya' for gettin'  after this. 


jeremy long · Apr 20, 2017 · BOULDER CO · Joined May 2011 · Points: 0

You should use a Ddrt system for handsfree rappel, ascent and descent. Clip the biner with a draw for tension and the Ddrt will allow easy adjustment for positioning and working. I also feel it would be a more comforting swing back out from the bulge.


aikibujin · Apr 20, 2017 · Castle Rock, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 135
dsauerbrun wrote:

The main reason I'm hesitant to do that is in case someone else wants to climb it with the liquid on the biner. I don't want to risk getting a chemical I don't know anything about on someone else's gear. That would require me to be sitting at the route waiting for the liquid to do it's job which I can't necessarily commit to.

Well, since it sounds like you've never done something like this, I figure dealing with a can of chemical is actually safer than waving a hacksaw/dremel/sawzall around while you're hanging on the thing, trying to figure out how to best get at it. But hey, it's your call. I've used liquid wrench to loosing up stuff before, if you use a wag and don't go crazy with it, you won't get it on climbing gear. It's not like you're spraying the whole cliff with the stuff.

BTW it's an aluminum biner, not steel. So if you do go with the hacksaw route, it shouldn't be too bad.


Craig Childre · Apr 21, 2017 · Lubbock, Texas · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,945

I think C-Ross is on the right track... If you load the hinge point the right way and and essentially twist the biner ( a load it was not designed for).  The steel pivot pin should rip easily through the aluminum.  I would use alternating force to weaken it before going for a complete snap being careful to not overload the hanger.  Though, IMO best practice.. head down to Harbor Freight, $10 for 12" bolt cutters... They make great brush trimmers after their fixed gear removal career too.


Vaughn · Apr 21, 2017 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 25

I would just take a shotgun up there (12GA) and repeatedly blast the offending carabiner until it falls off. Or do the saw thing. Either way I guess.


Tylerpratt · Apr 21, 2017 · Litchfield, Connecticut · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0

Mountain Project, the best place to turn a simple "cut the biner with a hacksaw" into a fucking expedition.

Climb up to said biner. Clip rope on own draw yell "take". Cut said biner with hacksaw. Yell rock and throw said biner at your fucking belayer. When belayer gets pissed call him a pussy. take apart your dremel tool and face mask, backup PAS, PAS backup cam hooks duct taped to wall and take apart backup off your backed up backup. HOW THE FUCK DID THIS GET BOLTED IN THE FIRST PLACE? OH YEAH...


Craig Childre · Apr 21, 2017 · Lubbock, Texas · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,945
Vaughn wrote:

I would just take a shotgun up there (12GA) and repeatedly blast the offending carabiner until it falls off. Or do the saw thing. Either way I guess.

 I wish everyone could see the cartoon playing in my head reading this post... LOL


dsauerbrun · 5 days ago · Boulder · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 5

Ladies and gentlemen, the bail biner from Wet Dream has finally been removed. My condolences to the folks who cannot get past the crux.

I took gloves and a 10 inch mini hacksaw up there with me and it took me about 10-15 minutes to cut through the aluminum biner. The hacksaw was like $3 off amazon so if you've ever got a similar situation, it's a cheap and quick solution. Only regret is not bringing glasses as getting bits of aluminum in my eyes kind of sucked

If in the future you need to bail off of a sport route, please do not use a locking biner, instead use a normal biner and back up your bail with a prussik which will catch you in the event that your bail biner fails. Instructions are explained on this petzl infographic: how to bail


Mathias · 5 days ago · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 120

I'm astonished it took so long, but I'm glad you got it done. That hacksaw blade must be made of old washing machines or something!


dsauerbrun · 5 days ago · Boulder · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 5
Mathias wrote:

I'm astonished it took so long, but I'm glad you got it done. That hacksaw blade must be made of old washing machines or something!

I was pumped! :(


MojoMonkey · 5 days ago · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 63

Some things shouldn't need to be said but sometimes I like to say them anyway...

Something to keep in mind for anyone considering similar maintenance in the future and not positive on how it will go - make sure you don't make the situation worse. You are also committed to finish once you start. Wrenching things with a breaker bar and failing to get it off probably leaves a less safe 'biner / hanger than you started with. So does figuring out you brought the wrong kind of saw and only you make it partway through before deciding to come back with a better tool.


Mark Rolofson · 5 days ago · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 305
dsauerbrun wrote:

If in the future you need to bail off of a sport route, please do not use a locking biner, instead use a normal biner

This Locking biner appears to be a old SMC locker.  If these old biners are tightened under body weight, they will not unscrew unless they are weighted again. I am assuming you tried to unscrew it under body weight.  Perhaps whoever tightened it weighed much more than you.  Modern locking carbiners don't function like the old SMC lockers & can generally be unscrewed regardless of how they were tightened.  I have seen one lightweight Mammut locker that I couldn't unscrew under weight. It was my biner on a draw clipped to a bolt. I had used it many times & not had any problems unscrewing it.  I don't know why it wouldn't unscrew.  I have used a lot of modern lockers on the bolt hanger side of the quickdraw & never had a problem unscrewing them.   


Monty · 5 days ago · Golden, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 2,664
dsauerbrun wrote:

Ladies and gentlemen, the bail biner from Wet Dream has finally been removed. My condolences to the folks who cannot get past the crux.

Thanks for getting rid of that pesky biner!!!!


Scott Baird · 5 days ago · Hagerstown, MD · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 15

For future reference, bolt cutters would probably be a lot easier, whether it's steel or aluminum. 18" long cutters would go right through aluminum like butter, maybe 24"-36" for steel to make it easy. May be bulky to pull up to yourself, but cutting would take seconds and have no metal shavings in your eyes, nor would positioning be as critical to stabilizer the binder while cutting.


Joan S. · 5 days ago · Unknown Hometown · Joined 17 hours ago · Points: 0

What's a biner??


Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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