A trad que


Original Post
Richard Andrew Heying · · Albuquerque, New Mexico · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 20

What area is the best place to lead trad for the first time 


Seth Jones · · New Lenox, IL · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 5


Alex Rosa · · Mordor · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 0

Yer gonna die..

But seriously, get a guide book do research and find an easy 5 or 6 that "eats gear" preferably with rap anchors at the top.  


Creed A · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 680

Eldo.


Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 40

^^Hah!  "Oh, hey...you can climb 5.7, right?"


Old lady H · · Boise, Idaho · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 120
Skeeter aka richard wrote:

What area is the best place to lead trad for the first time 

Hey, when I'm ready, my plan will be to start with a sport line that takes gear, for practice. In my area, some of the lines can be either. Just poke through your local guidebook, or pick old timers brains.

Have fun! Helen


Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 1,860

Gunks.  It's a long drive for you so plan to spend the weekend.


losbill · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 115

Okay my troll meter seems to be malfunctioning just a bit.  Somebody help me out am I missing something or is this just a post by an innocent?


ViperScale · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 165

The gym of course.


Idaho-Ian Lauer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

City of Rocks, drive up here so I have a partner next weekend


BrokenChairs · · Seattle · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 182

I think this is would be right up your alley: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/city-park/106328525

But seriously there's this crazy thing on mountain project where you can search for climbs in your area that meet your criteria.  You should give it a try. 


grant N · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 3

Red rocks is a good option gor a first lead. Ig you haven't been there before. Do a day or two of sport to get used to the feel of the rock. Dont climb hard sport though. Try putting some gear in half way through day 1 or on day 2. Then take a day or atleast get a later start and try a trad route. That would be my advice.


EB · · Winona · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 670

Devils Lake, hands down!


Jared Moore · · Tahoe City, CA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 45

yosemite


JulianG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 0

Gunks it is sport climbing with trad rack on most climbs. Not to mention lots but of fun. Also, try the jtree there are plenty of well protected cracks 


Tim Lutz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 0
Skeeter aka richard wrote:

What area is the best place to lead trad for the first time 

the cracks in Stoned Age Climbing gym


Detrick Snyder · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 135

Here's a sample search of easy Albuquerque area single-pitch climbs.

I recommend climbing a well protected sport route that will also take some gear.  Climb past a couple bolts, clip a bolt and place gear right above this, then start taking lead falls to build your confidence in the gear. Ideally, place the gear at varying levels of what you would imagine is secure.  This way you can tell if what you think will hold actually does, and you can see what constitutes a poor placement in practice.  

Safe Climbing!


Brandon.Phillips · · Alabama · Joined May 2011 · Points: 0

LIke, anywhere in country? Try Fortress Wall, Red River Gorge


Robert Michael · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 55

OP asks where to do first trad lead.

Profile says leads 5.7 trad.

Does not compute.


Seth Jones · · New Lenox, IL · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 5
Robert Michael wrote:

OP asks where to do first trad lead.

Profile says leads 5.7 trad.

Does not compute.

Hence the picture of Fry :)


Tylerpratt · · Litchfield, Connecticut · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0
Skeeter aka richard wrote:

What area is the best place to lead trad for the first time 

Moab splitters. Hard to fuck up cam placements there unless you have no idea how a cam works.


Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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